Nagasang a Laing (Spicy Laing)

Laing is a dish from the Bikol (Bicol) region of the Philippines. It consists of Taro leaves, coconut cream or milk, chilies and a protein, either pork or dried fish.

The first time I had spicy laing was at a party at my uncle Prisco’s house. There are seven children in his family, so it must had been someone’s birthday. When  my cousin showed me the dish, the first thing that I noticed was the sweet smell of the coconut and shrimp-past mixture. What looked like spinach was in fact taro leaves, something that up until that point I had never tried. I didn’t what to make of it, really. But, after having my first few bites, I was surprised to feel harmony of the spiciness of the chilies, the sweet creaminess of the coconut milk or cream, the saltiness of the shrimp paste and the smooth texture of the taro leaves. I’ve loved it ever since.

Since that day I’ve searched for recipes online. I was told at first that the dish I ate was called “Bikol Express”, named after a train that ran in Manila. After more research, I’ve come to find out that it is more of a laing recipe, instead, because of the addition of the taro leaves (gabi).

I also asked someone from the Bikol region about this dish. She mentioned that they wash the shrimp paste. That’s one technique I did not follow because all you would be left with would be the miniature shells of the shrimp. One recipe called for five different types of chilies, all in quarter-cup amounts, six cans of coconut cream and an entire 12-ounce jar of fermented shrimp paste! I continue to follow this recipe with some of my own tweaks and some tips from my uncle and my cousins. For one, I don’t use as many chilies nor in such amounts. Also, I don’t use as much shrimp paste.

This dish is truly a dish of extremes: it was very salty, very spicy and very sweet. The epitome of Filipino cooking! If you have an “adventurous” palate, this is the dish for you!

Recipe

Serves six to eight

Ingredients

• 2-3 lbs. pork butt or belly cut into 1/2” strips
• 1 large yellow onion diced
• 3 - 4 cloves garlic, smashed and minced
• 1/4 cup ginger peeled, crushed and minced
• 1/4 cup fresh turmeric, peeled, crushed and diced
• 1 stalk of lemongrass, crushed and tied
• 1/2 cup or more fermented shrimp paste
• 1 can coconut cream (Do not get "cream of coconut"; it's a different product used in alcoholic drinks)
• 2 bundles of fresh taro leaves chiffonade
• 1-2 Tbsp. oil
• 5 Thai birds-eye chilies (or more)
• 2 Jalapeño chilies (optional)
• 2 Serrano chilies (optional)

Preparation

Pork

I prefer to use either pork butt or the country-style ribs. Pork belly is great, too, but I like a higher ratio of lean to fat, but not absolutely lean. Skin is OK, but I’m not a fan unless it’s chicharrones or crackling.

To cut down on the greasiness of the final product, cut the pork into long strips about one-inch wide, but short enough to place inside a steamer. Salt and pepper the pork and steam for 10 – 15 minutes. Once steamed, let the pork cool enough to handle and slice into strips. What you are doing is pre-cooking the pork and rendering the excess fat.

Ginger and Turmeric

Peel the ginger by scraping using a tablespoon. Smash the ginger and mince.

The most common form turmeric appears in many grocery stores is in a dried powder form. This recipe calls for fresh. This root, resembles ginger in appearance, but has a ruddy, orange color. Turmeric stains! Use latex gloves if possible because the stains will remain on your fingers for several days.

Lemongrass

Take off the outer “leaves” of the lemongrass. Pound the lemongrass to release its essence and then tie in a loose knot because it will make it easier to retrieved later.

Fermented Shrimp Paste

The fermented shrimp paste I use is usually called “bugguong armang” or “baguong alamang”. The paste comes in 12-ounce jars and has a pink color (usually food coloring). It is available at many grocery stores that specialize or stock Asian food products.

Taro Leaves

Tarot leaves can be found in grocery stores that specialize or stock Asian food products. Cut off and discard the stalks. Roll the leaves into tight cones by using where the stalk connected to the leave as the apex. Once rolled into a cone cut into strips. What you are doing is chiffonade-ing the leaves. I’ll have to record a video how this is done, somehow. Afterward, rinse the cut leave under cold water, drain and set aside.

Many recipes call for dried taro leaves. Unfortunately, I don’t have experience with them. I can usually get them fresh in the stores in Chinatown, here in Seattle. There are other recipes that suggest that you wipe down the leaves because the fine hairs cause irritation in the mouth and throat. In my experience this hasn’t happened.

[EDIT: 01/10/2018 ]

Since writing this post several years ago, I have tried using the dried leaves. They are more convenient and require no prep work. Just open the packet -- I usually use two 4oz. packets -- and add it to the dish. But, make sure that there is enough liquid.

Chilies

When handling the chilies, use latex gloves. I’ve been sticking with just using the Thai chilies. Just six or seven is enough for me. I cut them into very thin slices, discarding the green stem. I don’t seed them either and leave the flesh where the source of the heat lays.

Procedure

1. Heat oil in a 2 quart pot or Dutch oven.
2. Sauté onions over medium high heat and sweat with a few pinches of salt until translucent.
3. Add garlic sauté until fragrant..
4. Add crushed ginger and turmeric. Stir in until fragrant.
5. Add shrimp paste and the lemons grass. Stir to make sure everything is mixed well.
6. Add chilies and stir in the pork.
7. Make sure to shake the can of coconut cream, and then add it to the pot.
8. Add taro leaves a batch at a time. Once one batch wilts add another. If you are using dried, make sure each batch rehydrates.
9. Bring to a boil and stir occasionally. Taste and adjust for spiciness and seasoning. Use more sliced chilies if desired to increase its spiciness.
10. Turn down the heat to medium and continue to cook for another 10 minutes. The taro leaves should be wilted enough to resemble creamed spinach.
11. Turn down the heat further and reduce if there is still more liquid. It should not appear soupy.
12. Fish out the lemongrass and discard.
13. Serve with rice and with extra chilies (optional).
14. Enjoy.