Patis: Fish Sauce

Fish sauce is a very ancient cooking ingredient popular in South-East Asia. Essentially, it is the liquid extracted from fermented fish mixed with salt. Many fish sauces comprise mostly of anchovies, but other sauces will include other types of fish and sometimes spices.

It is not unknown in Western cooking, however. It was known by the Greeks as early as the fourth or third century BCE. The Romans used garum or liquamen who mixed it with wine, honey or vinegar. In fact, Worcestershire sauce has its origin in the Greco-Roman condiment.

Because of fish sauce’s fermented nature, it is pungent in both smell and flavor. Having said that, it should be used sparingly as both an ingredient and as a condiment. Remember: A little can go a very, very long way.

Making fish sauce is rather simple: Mix fish and salt together and then wait for the liquid to seep out. The main thing that must be kept in mind is the ratio between fish and salt (3:2). Too much salt, and you are preserving and drying out to fish; too much fish and you’re creating a smelly mess.

After making mine, I did not buy any fish sauce for three or four years! For one, I made a lot; and, two, I used it sparingly.

My recipe calls for only one fish (anchovies) and salt. There are no other ingredients needed.

Making fish sauce at home is for the hard-core home cook.

Disclaimer: There is a potential for food poisoning should you follow the steps below. Attempt at your own risk. Otherwise, just read on out of curiosity.

Ingredients:

The weights of the ingredients are a starting point. Adjust the amounts according to how much you wish to make. Maintain the weight ratio and you should be off to a good start. Remember: 3:2!

• 2lbs. Anchovies – If you can get freshly caught anchovies, that would be the best option. Otherwise, using frozen anchovies is the next best alternative. Make sure to thaw the fish.
• 3lbs. Rock Salt – This type of salt allows for the juices from the fish to “filter” out. Kosher salt would also work because of its coarseness. Anything finer such as table salt may not be to your advantage. Remember this is by weight and not by volume.

Tools:

• Latex gloves – This will keep the smell off of your hands as you work.
• One-gallon (at least) air-tight container – Make sure that it has a wide mouth and that it is air-tight to keep the smell in check.
• Turkey baster – Used for siphoning.
• Coffee filters – Used to remove sediment.
• Funnel – Used with the coffee filter.
• Air-tight container – This will be used to store the liquid.
• Serving container – This should be air-tight as well because the liquid will evaporate when not used.

Preparation:

These are directions that I got from my mother whom I have seen make patis/bugguong. The very first step is optional.

1. (Optional) Place the fish in a tightly covered pan or bowl and leave it on the counter for two to three days. If you are using frozen, do not open the bag. Yes! You read that right! The fish will be left out in the open for a couple of days. Leave it out for more days if you are daring. So, keep it tightly covered or place in somewhere else, say the garage, where it will not be disturbed. After the first couple of days, it will reek. I mean really reek!
2. When the fish is “ready” (if you’ve chosen to follow step one), or if you haven’t, and the fish is thawed or fresh, layer the bottom of you container with about 1/4” of the salt. Take some of the fish and make a 1/4” layer on top of the salt. Repeat layering salt and fish. Close the container tightly and store the container at room temperature where it will not be disturbed.
3. In two or three days, carefully open the container. The fermentation process may have already started and the smell will be overwhelming. If you followed the first step, bubbles may have formed and the liquid may have risen. You have need to give the mixture a stir to release any pockets of gas that might have formed in the layers. Once you are done, close the container tightly.
4. For about one month, check the container about every two or three days to stir the mixture. With each passing check, you will find that the smell will mellow considerably and will reek less. At the end of month, it should smell like fish sauce. If it still does not smell characteristically like fish sauce give it another two weeks to another month.
5. Once it smells mellower and like fish sauce, siphon some of the liquid using the turkey baster. Run the siphoned liquid through a coffee filter and into another air-tight container to remove the grey sediment. You will find that you might need to use a few filters before you fill the container you’re using to store the finished product for long term.
6. Use it as you would regular patis that you would otherwise have bought at the store.

Sources:

1. Fish Sauce (Wikipedia)
2. All About Fish Sauce (Nam Pla)
3. How Fish Sauce Is Made
4. Worcestershire sauce