Arroz Caldo in Your Rice Cooker

Arroz Caldo (or lugaw) is a Filipino-style congee (rice porridge or rice gruel) commonly eaten for breakfast or fed to the sick or to infants. The rice is simmered in a higher ratio of water than what would normally be used to cook/steam it. The kernels are softer and broken, no longer retaining their shape. The starch in the rice leeches into the cooking liquid making it thicker and more viscous. It takes on a stew-like consistency.

The English term is “congee” derived from Tamil and it is commonly used in Chinese restaurants. The Chinese terms (粥), however, are “zhou” (Mandarin) and “jook” (Cantonese). “Congee” will be the English term I’ll use for the rest of this post.

Pinning Down Terms

Filipinos tend to use lugaw (Tagalog) and arroz caldo (Spanish, lit. “rice broth”) interchangeably. But, after doing some research, it appears that lugaw is plain congee. The preparation is rather simple: simmer rice in a large amount of liquid until the kernels break apart and the desired consistency is achieved. After cooking, other ingredients are added such as pork, chicken, sliced hard-boiled eggs and garnished with friend garlic, scallions and saffron. The preparation for arroz caldo is similar -- rice simmered in a large amount of liquid. However, the ingredients are added during the cooking process, instead. Common ingredients include ginger, garlic, onions, fish sauce and chicken. These are cooked with the rice in water or chicken stock. And, like lugaw, diners can add friend garlic, more fish sauce and scallions.

This recipe will concentrate on arroz caldo and cooking it in a rice cooker instead of on the stove top. I’ve cooked arroz caldo on the stove top many times. If you don’t keep stirring or minding the heat, the rice tends to scorch on the bottom of the pot. When I searched online for recipes for congee, one article piqued my interest. Its approach was to cook in a rice cooker.

Yes, in the Rice Cooker!

6 Ways to Make Rice Porridge or Congee was written by the owner of “Home-Made Chinese Soups”, Phoebe. Among the six ways she mentions is to use a rice cooker. I thought it was brilliant idea since rice cookers will reach a certain cooking temperature and maintain the food at that temperature until done. You, the cook don’t have to constantly fiddle with the temperature so the rice won’t scorch. Some more sophisticated and expensive cookers already have a congee setting. Score! My approach, however, will not assume that yours has a “congee” setting. I’m assuming yours (and mine) is a very basic unit.

Arroz caldo is thicker, more viscous than Chinese congee which Phoebe talks about in her article, so according to the section two, “How much water?”, I used a rice to liquid/water ratio of 1:4. Because this is arroz caldo and not lugaw, I sautéed the aromatic ingredients in the cooker with some oil until fragrant and then added the rice treating it like risotto. Once the rice kernels were well coated in oil, I added the liquid. Instead of adding onions, I decided to use a shortcut and added onion soup mix. But, I have added below steps to use onions, instead. After the onion soup mix or the onions, I added bone-in chicken thighs. I checked every five minutes until it reached the consistency that I wanted and turned the cooker to warm. One thing I noticed, is that the cooker continued in the “cook” setting and never tripped back to “warm”. So, your unit may go to "warm" when it thinks it’s done. If it isn’t, flip it back to "cook" and continue. Flip it back to "warm" when you’re done.

Ingredients

• 1 Tablespoon vegetable oil
• 3 Cloves garlic minced
• 2 - 3 1/4” Discs of ginger
  [Another option is to use 1 Tablespoon minced ginger. I like the discs so that they can be pulled out while eating.]
• 1 Packet of onion soup mix
  [I used Lipton’s. But, you can use Knorr or another brand. Pay attention to the amount of water normally used on the packaging. You may not need to use the contents of the entire packet]
• 1 Cup (dry measure) long grain rice such as Jasmine
  [The choice of what kind of rice to use is up to you. I’ve seen short grain, long grain, a mix, glutinous, etc.; use what you have on hand.]
• 4 Cups water
• 3 Chicken thighs bone-in rinsed
  [You can use other chicken parts, bone-in or boneless. You may opt to remove the skin. But, I find that the skin imparts that “schmaltzy” flavor. Remove the skin once it’s done cooking if you prefer.]
• Condiments (optional):
  - Thinly sliced scallions
  - Sliced hard-boiled eggs
  - Saffron threads
  - Fish sauce (AKA “patis”)
  - Fried garlic

If you would not like to use the onion soup packet, you can use the following:

• 1 Medium onion sliced thin
• 1 Tablespoon fish sauce (AKA, “patis”, “nam pla”) (optional)
  -- OR --
• 2 pinches of salt (more to taste)

Directions

1. Wash the rice several times until the water becomes clear, drain and set aside.
2. Add the vegetable oil and the ginger to the inner pot of the rice cooker. Turn to the “cook” (or equivalent) setting.
3. Once the rice cooker reaches temperature, you will hear the ginger start to sizzle. (2 – 3 minutes) Sauté the ginger until fragrant.
4. Add the garlic and continue to sauté until fragrant.
5. If you are using the onion (not the soup packet), add the onion and sauté until translucent. Add a few pinches of salt to aid in sweating the onions.
6. Add the rice and stir for approximately five minutes.
7. Add the water.
8. If using the packet, stir in the contents of the packet until dissolved and the dehydrated onions absorb moisture.
9. Add the chicken and stir.
10. Cover and stir every 5 minutes.
11. Continue cooking until the arroz caldo thickens, the rice kernels break open and the chicken is cooked. Approximately, 30 to 40 minutes.
12. Remove chicken. Remove skin (optional), shred chicken and return to cooker.
13. Once the desired consistency is achieved turn off or set cooker to “warm” or turn off.
14. Serve in a bowl and top with friend garlic, scallions, saffron and hard boiled egg. Offer additional fish sauce on the side.

I don’t add much more than just a bit more patis to my bowl.

Notes

• Choose a rice cooker that can hold 8 or more cups of (cooked) rice. I tried this on my small 6-cup model and it was full up to the brim. I knew that it would over boil.
• If you are using the onion soup mix, do NOT add salt or fish sauce during cooking. The soup mix might have enough sodium as it is.
• Your cooker might switch to “warm” signifying that it thinks that the arroz caldo is done. If it isn’t switching it back to “cook” until you are done.
• The cooker may never switch to “warm” even when the arroz caldo is done. Switch it to “warm” when you feel it necessary.

Arroz Caldo: What to Do with Leftover Rice?

What to do with leftover rice from last night’s dinner? More often than not my family would turn it into fried rice the next day. This is why I don’t think of fried rice as a “main” dish; it’s a “leftover” dish for me. So, I don’t order it when I go out to eat.

There is an alternative option to this dilemma, however. And, that is to make arroz caldo!

If you aren’t familiar with arroz caldo, read my other post on how to make it in a rice cooker. Many of the same steps apply, except you won’t be using uncooked rice.

Ingredients

• 2 Tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 – 3 Cloves of garlic minced
• 3 1”x1/4” Coins of ginger or 1 1/2 Tablespoons of minced or grated ginger
  Coins are easier to fish out while eating 
• 1/2 Medium onion diced
• 2 Pinches of salt
• 3 – 4 Scallions sliced thin. Separate whites from greens
• 3 – 4 Chicken thighs, bone-in, skin on
• 6 – 8 Cups of water, chicken stock or broth
• 2 Cups leftover cooked rice
• 2 Tablespoons fish sauce (patis) or 1 Teaspoon of salt (optional)
• Ground pepper to taste about 1/2 a teaspoon

Directions

I’ve written the directions as if the rice cooker has been cleaned. That’s where the sautéing in the cooker comes in. But, if the cooked rice is still in the pot, read the next section. They’re similar steps, but they take into account that the other ingredients must be sautéed and browned before adding them to the cooker.

Clean cooker

1. Turn on the rice cooker to “cook” or its equivalent and add oil and ginger to the inner pot. The cooker will reach the proper temperature when the ginger begins to sizzle.
2. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant.
3. Add the chicken to the pot and brown.
4. Add the onion and sauté until translucent. Throw in a couple of pinches of salt to help sweat the onions.
5. Add the scallion whites and continue to sauté. Continue to brown the chicken.
6. Add the cooked rice, the water, black pepper and patis (if using). Cover.
7. Once the ingredient begin to boil, check the cooker every five minutes and stir until the rice kernels break and the arroz caldo reaches a thick, stew-like consistency. The rice cooker might switch to “warm”. If the arroz caldo still is not cooked, switch the cooker back to “cook” and continue to stir every five minutes. Once done, you may need to manually switch the cooker off or to “warm”.
8. Serve in a bowl with scallions, sliced hard-boiled eggs, saffron threads and add more fish sauce.

Rice is still in the cooker

1. Leave the equivalent of two cups in the cooker.
2. Add the water or broth to the cooker and switch the cooker to “cook”.
3. In a skillet heat the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmer, add the ginger and sauté until fragrant.
4. Add the garlic and continue to sauté until it too becomes fragrant.
5. Add the chicken and brown.
6. Add the onion and sauté until translucent. Throw in a couple of pinches of salt to help sweat the onions.
7. Add the scallion whites and continue to sauté. Continue to brown the chicken.
8. Transfer all the ingredients to the rice cooker. Add black pepper and patis (if using) and cover.
9. Once the ingredient begin to boil, check the cooker every five minutes and stir until the rice kernels break and the arroz caldo reaches a thick, stew-like consistency. The rice cooker might switch to “warm”. If the arroz caldo still is not cooked, switch the cooker back to “cook” and continue to stir every five minutes. Once done, you may need to manually switch the cooker off or to “warm”.
10. Serve in a bowl with scallions, sliced hard-boiled eggs, saffron threads and add more fish sauce.

Sinigang (Without the Packet)

Wikipedia

Sinigang (or “Sinig-ang” in some dialects of Tagalog) is a tangy, sour soup popular in Philippine cuisine. Commonly it consists of a protein, beef, pork, chicken or seafood and a soup soured by tamarind (Tagalog: “sampalok”), guava, calamondin or “golden lime” (Tagalog: “kalamansi”), bilimbi, unripe mango or miso paste. This recipe uses tamarind -- the most popular.

Tamarind comes in dried pods. But, before cooking, the pods are soaked in water until the seeds can be separated from the sticky, brown pulp. Both the seeds and the outer husk are discarded. This can take some time, so companies such as Knorr have created convenient packets that contain tamarind powder and other seasonings. When you read the ingredient list of these packets you will find… MSG.

Monosodium glutamate (MSG) isn’t a “bad” seasoning, but it’s gained a reputation. There are those who steer clear of it. As for me, I use it occasionally when a recipe calls for it. And, as far as the convenient packets go, I’ve needed to use two or three to achieve that same tanginess that I prefer. How many I would used would depend on what brand. That would spell more packets, more MSG.

I like the idea of having more control over the seasonings I use and using only the tamarind fruit eschewing the packets. But, I just don’t have the experience with removing the fruit. I found a middle ground between convenience and real ingredients, however: tamarind concentrate or paste.

Living in Seattle, I was able to find tamarind concentrate and/or paste in various Asian supermarkets such as Viet Wah, HT Market near Oak Tree Cinemas in North Seattle or at the Uwajimaya in the International District/Chinatown.  Nevertheless, in this day and age tamarind concentrate/paste can be bought online via Amazon.com and the like.

I used about four tablespoons in my latest attempt. I was able to achieve that same zest that the friend that I was cooking for was surprised that I didn’t use a packet. Since I started cooking this way, I have only used tamarind concentrate with great results. I will never go back to the packets again!

Serves 4 - 6

Ingredients:

• 1 Tablespoon oil such as canola (“rapeseed”) or corn oil.
• 1 Medium onion diced
• 3 – 4 Garlic cloves smashed and minced

• A pinch or two of table salt
• 1 1/2 – 2 Lbs. Pork butt (AKA “shoulder”) cut into 1” cubes
• 3 – 4 Roma or plum tomatoes or 1 medium-sized tomato quartered
• Approximately 3 – 4 Cups of water to cover
• 2 – 4 Tablespoons tamarind concentrate or more it you want a tangier soup
• 1/2 Lb. Yard-long beans (“sitaw”), trimmed of their stems and cut into 1” pieces
• 1/2 Lb. Baby bok choy cut in quarters lengthwise

• (Optional) 1 Tablespoon fish sauce (“patis”) – You can substitute with one teaspoon (or less) of regular table salt

NOTES:

• Tomatoes – Most recipes I’ve read include tomatoes, but I’ve found that too much tomato can make the broth sweet, something you don’t want if you want a sour broth.
• The protein in this recipe is pork, but you can use beef or seafood. If you decide to use beef and good stew cut works well, but it might be necessary to cook longer to tenderize the beef.
• The yard-long beans and the bok choy are more of a suggestion. You can substitute any green, leafy vegetable in your dish.

Preparation:

1. Heat oil in a large pot such as 2 quart casserole or Dutch over medium high heat.
2. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic and give it a quick stir.
3. Once the garlic is fragrant (less than one minute), add the diced onion. Add a few pinches of salt to help the onions sweat and become translucent. (3 – 4 minutes)
4. Add the pork and sauté until all pieces turn color. (5 – 6 minutes)
5. Stir in and macerate the tomatoes. If using, stir in the patis or add additional salt. Cover and let cook for 5 minutes.
6. Add water. Stir in the tamarind concentrate. Add one tablespoon at a time and taste. If it is as tangy as you want it at two tablespoons, stop. If you want it tangier, add another. But, make sure to stir and taste after each spoonful. Once it’s in, you can’t take it out!
7. Cover again and let cook for another 5 minutes.
8. Add the yard long beans. Cover again and cook for another 5 minutes.
9. Give the soup a stir. Add the bok choy; cover and cook for another 5 minutes.
10. At this point you can turn down the heat to medium-low and cook covered for another 10 – 20 minutes to allow the flavors to meld and for the pork to become tender.
11. Serve the soup with pork and vegetables in a bowl. Put steamed rice on a plate and pour a few tablespoons of patis into a small dipping bowl as a condiment.

Eating “Wet and Dry”

Sinigang is one of many dishes that can be eaten “wet and dry” in Filipino cuisine. What is meant by this is that the soup (the “wet”) is spooned over the rice (the “dry”) bit by bit as you eat. The rice in never soaked 100%. Fish out the pork or the vegetables and place onto the wet rice, spoon some of the condiment (here patis) over the protein and vegetables. Fill the spoon with the rice, soup and the pork and vegetables so you have everything in one bite. Enjoy!

Patis: Fish Sauce

Fish sauce is a very ancient cooking ingredient popular in South-East Asia. Essentially, it is the liquid extracted from fermented fish mixed with salt. Many fish sauces comprise mostly of anchovies, but other sauces will include other types of fish and sometimes spices.

It is not unknown in Western cooking, however. It was known by the Greeks as early as the fourth or third century BCE. The Romans used garum or liquamen who mixed it with wine, honey or vinegar. In fact, Worcestershire sauce has its origin in the Greco-Roman condiment.

Because of fish sauce’s fermented nature, it is pungent in both smell and flavor. Having said that, it should be used sparingly as both an ingredient and as a condiment. Remember: A little can go a very, very long way.

Making fish sauce is rather simple: Mix fish and salt together and then wait for the liquid to seep out. The main thing that must be kept in mind is the ratio between fish and salt (3:2). Too much salt, and you are preserving and drying out to fish; too much fish and you’re creating a smelly mess.

After making mine, I did not buy any fish sauce for three or four years! For one, I made a lot; and, two, I used it sparingly.

My recipe calls for only one fish (anchovies) and salt. There are no other ingredients needed.

Making fish sauce at home is for the hard-core home cook.

Disclaimer: There is a potential for food poisoning should you follow the steps below. Attempt at your own risk. Otherwise, just read on out of curiosity.

Ingredients:

The weights of the ingredients are a starting point. Adjust the amounts according to how much you wish to make. Maintain the weight ratio and you should be off to a good start. Remember: 3:2!

• 2lbs. Anchovies – If you can get freshly caught anchovies, that would be the best option. Otherwise, using frozen anchovies is the next best alternative. Make sure to thaw the fish.
• 3lbs. Rock Salt – This type of salt allows for the juices from the fish to “filter” out. Kosher salt would also work because of its coarseness. Anything finer such as table salt may not be to your advantage. Remember this is by weight and not by volume.

Tools:

• Latex gloves – This will keep the smell off of your hands as you work.
• One-gallon (at least) air-tight container – Make sure that it has a wide mouth and that it is air-tight to keep the smell in check.
• Turkey baster – Used for siphoning.
• Coffee filters – Used to remove sediment.
• Funnel – Used with the coffee filter.
• Air-tight container – This will be used to store the liquid.
• Serving container – This should be air-tight as well because the liquid will evaporate when not used.

Preparation:

These are directions that I got from my mother whom I have seen make patis/bugguong. The very first step is optional.

1. (Optional) Place the fish in a tightly covered pan or bowl and leave it on the counter for two to three days. If you are using frozen, do not open the bag. Yes! You read that right! The fish will be left out in the open for a couple of days. Leave it out for more days if you are daring. So, keep it tightly covered or place in somewhere else, say the garage, where it will not be disturbed. After the first couple of days, it will reek. I mean really reek!
2. When the fish is “ready” (if you’ve chosen to follow step one), or if you haven’t, and the fish is thawed or fresh, layer the bottom of you container with about 1/4” of the salt. Take some of the fish and make a 1/4” layer on top of the salt. Repeat layering salt and fish. Close the container tightly and store the container at room temperature where it will not be disturbed.
3. In two or three days, carefully open the container. The fermentation process may have already started and the smell will be overwhelming. If you followed the first step, bubbles may have formed and the liquid may have risen. You have need to give the mixture a stir to release any pockets of gas that might have formed in the layers. Once you are done, close the container tightly.
4. For about one month, check the container about every two or three days to stir the mixture. With each passing check, you will find that the smell will mellow considerably and will reek less. At the end of month, it should smell like fish sauce. If it still does not smell characteristically like fish sauce give it another two weeks to another month.
5. Once it smells mellower and like fish sauce, siphon some of the liquid using the turkey baster. Run the siphoned liquid through a coffee filter and into another air-tight container to remove the grey sediment. You will find that you might need to use a few filters before you fill the container you’re using to store the finished product for long term.
6. Use it as you would regular patis that you would otherwise have bought at the store.

Sources:

1. Fish Sauce (Wikipedia)
2. All About Fish Sauce (Nam Pla)
3. How Fish Sauce Is Made
4. Worcestershire sauce

Sammy's Ramen

Tonight after coming home I decided to make something with ramen, the typical food of the college-aged kid. Mind you, it's not something I had very much when I was going to college. But, ramen does remind me of my mom who used to give it to us for lunch when we were younger. The best part of it was that she would crack an egg into the broth – my favorite part.

I couldn't devise a good name for this dish, so I decided to name this after the cat with whom I live: Sammy. He was the first to greet me when I came home.

Ingredients:

• 1/4 Lb. of pork. I used the "country style" pork ribs (boneless). Cut into 1/4 inch slices.
• One pack of ramen. Choose any brand you like, but set aside the "flavor packet". Use it for something else if you want or just throw it away. I will have to try with “fresh” ramen.
• 3 - 4 cups of water
• 1 - 3 Tablespoons of fish sauce or soy sauce. Add according to taste. This will be a salty broth.
• 3 - 4 Scallion (green onion) stalks. Sliced. Separate the white from the green.
• 1 Tablespoon of sesame oil
• 1/4 Teaspoon of grated ginger. Or, if you're too anxious, 1 - 2 1/4 inch thick slices.
  

Directions:

1. Mix the pork with the fish sauce or soy sauce in a small bowl.
2. In a medium-size sauce pan, bring to a boil the water and the white part of the scallions.
3. Once boiling add the sliced pork and cook until the pork changes color. 3 - 4 minutes.
4. Remove the pork and set aside.
5. Turn down the heat to medium.
6. Put the pack of ramen and cook for 1 - 3 minutes until the noodles soften. Do not cook until mushy.
7. Add the sesame oil and stir into the noodles.
8. Stirring constantly, cook for another 2 - 3 minutes.
9. Portion out the noodles into each bowl.
10. Portion out the pork slices on top of the noodles.
11. Pour broth into each bowl over the pork and noodles.
12. Garnish with the green part of the scallions.
13. Slurp to your hunger's content.