Patis: Fish Sauce

Fish sauce is a very ancient cooking ingredient popular in South-East Asia. Essentially, it is the liquid extracted from fermented fish mixed with salt. Many fish sauces comprise mostly of anchovies, but other sauces will include other types of fish and sometimes spices.

It is not unknown in Western cooking, however. It was known by the Greeks as early as the fourth or third century BCE. The Romans used garum or liquamen who mixed it with wine, honey or vinegar. In fact, Worcestershire sauce has its origin in the Greco-Roman condiment.

Because of fish sauce’s fermented nature, it is pungent in both smell and flavor. Having said that, it should be used sparingly as both an ingredient and as a condiment. Remember: A little can go a very, very long way.

Making fish sauce is rather simple: Mix fish and salt together and then wait for the liquid to seep out. The main thing that must be kept in mind is the ratio between fish and salt (3:2). Too much salt, and you are preserving and drying out to fish; too much fish and you’re creating a smelly mess.

After making mine, I did not buy any fish sauce for three or four years! For one, I made a lot; and, two, I used it sparingly.

My recipe calls for only one fish (anchovies) and salt. There are no other ingredients needed.

Making fish sauce at home is for the hard-core home cook.

Disclaimer: There is a potential for food poisoning should you follow the steps below. Attempt at your own risk. Otherwise, just read on out of curiosity.

Ingredients:

The weights of the ingredients are a starting point. Adjust the amounts according to how much you wish to make. Maintain the weight ratio and you should be off to a good start. Remember: 3:2!

• 2lbs. Anchovies – If you can get freshly caught anchovies, that would be the best option. Otherwise, using frozen anchovies is the next best alternative. Make sure to thaw the fish.
• 3lbs. Rock Salt – This type of salt allows for the juices from the fish to “filter” out. Kosher salt would also work because of its coarseness. Anything finer such as table salt may not be to your advantage. Remember this is by weight and not by volume.

Tools:

• Latex gloves – This will keep the smell off of your hands as you work.
• One-gallon (at least) air-tight container – Make sure that it has a wide mouth and that it is air-tight to keep the smell in check.
• Turkey baster – Used for siphoning.
• Coffee filters – Used to remove sediment.
• Funnel – Used with the coffee filter.
• Air-tight container – This will be used to store the liquid.
• Serving container – This should be air-tight as well because the liquid will evaporate when not used.

Preparation:

These are directions that I got from my mother whom I have seen make patis/bugguong. The very first step is optional.

1. (Optional) Place the fish in a tightly covered pan or bowl and leave it on the counter for two to three days. If you are using frozen, do not open the bag. Yes! You read that right! The fish will be left out in the open for a couple of days. Leave it out for more days if you are daring. So, keep it tightly covered or place in somewhere else, say the garage, where it will not be disturbed. After the first couple of days, it will reek. I mean really reek!
2. When the fish is “ready” (if you’ve chosen to follow step one), or if you haven’t, and the fish is thawed or fresh, layer the bottom of you container with about 1/4” of the salt. Take some of the fish and make a 1/4” layer on top of the salt. Repeat layering salt and fish. Close the container tightly and store the container at room temperature where it will not be disturbed.
3. In two or three days, carefully open the container. The fermentation process may have already started and the smell will be overwhelming. If you followed the first step, bubbles may have formed and the liquid may have risen. You have need to give the mixture a stir to release any pockets of gas that might have formed in the layers. Once you are done, close the container tightly.
4. For about one month, check the container about every two or three days to stir the mixture. With each passing check, you will find that the smell will mellow considerably and will reek less. At the end of month, it should smell like fish sauce. If it still does not smell characteristically like fish sauce give it another two weeks to another month.
5. Once it smells mellower and like fish sauce, siphon some of the liquid using the turkey baster. Run the siphoned liquid through a coffee filter and into another air-tight container to remove the grey sediment. You will find that you might need to use a few filters before you fill the container you’re using to store the finished product for long term.
6. Use it as you would regular patis that you would otherwise have bought at the store.

Sources:

1. Fish Sauce (Wikipedia)
2. All About Fish Sauce (Nam Pla)
3. How Fish Sauce Is Made
4. Worcestershire sauce

Ox Tails in Peanut Butter Stew – Kare-Kare

Food Memory Mystery

Among the dishes that I like to make Kare-Kare or ox tails in a peanut butter stew is one of those food memory mysteries of mine. I can’t remember when I first had it. I don’t remember if either of my parents made it for us kids growing up. And, I don’t remember having it at the many extended family functions with my many aunts, uncles, cousins and second cousins. What I do remember is trying my hand at it for a small dinner with my friends Kate and Howard.

 

Kate, Howard and I came to an agreement that we’d cook for each other and any other friends who attended every Wednesday evening. Most of the time, it was at my apartment in the University district here in Seattle because it was the most convenient spot. I was in between jobs at the time. When it came to getting the place ready or when it was my turn to cook, I had ample time. One night it was my turn to cook, so I decided to cook Kare-Kare.

 

My first trial wasn’t that great. I learned a great deal, but the one lesson that I took away from that experience was that Kare-Kare takes time. The timing in the recipe was off. When I served I served it to Kate and Howard, the ox tails were tough and rubbery. The 90 minutes for the tails didn’t seem enough. The long beans with far from al dente and the eggplant was a bit raw. The flavors didn’t have time to meld. I’m glad that I didn’t use any tripe which some recipes called for; it would have been unpleasant because it would not have been cooked properly, either.

 

I made Kare-Kare again after being inspired by a book titled Memories of Philippine Kitchens by Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan. Their recipe appears on page 55. I’ve followed it almost to the letter on several occasions, but I’ve since slightly deviated from it. In the interests of saving time, I use a pressure cooker to tenderize the ox tail.

Kare-Kare ready to serve

Ingredients

Ox Tail

• 3 Lbs. Ox Tail – It’s possible to substitute another cut of beef. A good substitute is short ribs. If you are using a tougher cut, then cook it in a pressure cooker. If not, you can skip the step.
• (Optional) 1/2 Lb. Beef tripe - cleaned well in cool water and vinegar until the grassy smell is gone and cut into 1/2 inch strips. If you’re squeamish about offal, you can skip this ingredient.
• 8 Cloves of garlic – 4 Smashed and minced. 4 whole. Or, more garlic if you like. 
• 2 Medium onions - 1 quartered, 1 diced
• 6 Roma tomatoes or equivalent quartered
• 1/4 Cup creamy peanut butter. Chunky is OK, too.
• 2 Tbsp. achuete oil. Gives the sauce a tinge of red. Recipe: Achuete Oil

  

  Yard-long beans

• 1 Bundle yard-long beans. AKA “Chinese long beans” or “sitaw”. Cut into 2 inch segments.
• 3 – 4 Eggplants or aubergines, split down the middle and cut into 1/2 inch pieces
• 1/4 Lb. Bok Choy
• Salt and pepper to taste
• (Optional) Bugguong Alamang or Baguong Armang, fermented shrimp paste. Used as a condiment.

Procedure

1. Wash and pat the ox tail dry with paper towels.
2. Score the ox tail parallel to the bone.
3. Season each with salt and pepper.
4. Put the ox tail and the tripe in a pressure cooker. Add quartered onion and full cloves of garlic. Fill with water just to cover.
5. Start timer once the pressure cooker starts to hiss and turn down the heat to maintain a gentle hiss. Cook for 1 hour.
   
   Alternate:
   If you're not using a pressure cooker or you are using a different cut of beef, use a Dutch Oven or a large pot. A vessel with about two-quarts capacity or more, such as one used in cooking pasta should do. Bring to a boil, and boil for 15 – 20 minutes. Turn down the heat, cover and simmer for an hour and a half or two hours. Or, just until the meat starts to pull away from the bone.
6. If using a pressure cooker, turn off the heat and let cool just enough until it is safe to open. Follow the instruction manual for your cooker. But, don't open it just yet. Place the cooker in an ice bath in the sink. Fill the sink with ice and water just enough to reach the level of liquid in the cooker. You can tell where the liquid is just by looking at the sides of the cooker. Let the liquid cool until the fat floats to the top and solidifies, about 1 hour.
   
   CAUTION: When filling the sink with the cooker in the ice bath, DO NOT have the cold water hit the lid. I did this today and thermodynamics went into effect. I heard the cooker depressurize as I was tending to something else. When I investigated some of the cooking liquid came out; the seal had somehow broken, releasing hot liquid. It wasn't that bad, but could have been worse and I would have updated my status on my mobile while at a local hospital. So, let it cool a bit, then put it in the ice bath.
   
7. If you're using a Dutch Over or a similar cooking vessel, follow the ice bath step above letting the fat come to the surface and solidify.
8. Skim the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid. Try to remove as much of the fat in whole pieces as possible without the cooking liquid. Reserve the fat. You will be using this fat to sauté the garlic and onions. Water will just add to the splattering. The amount of fat should be enough that you will not need to add canola oil to make up the difference.
9. (Optional) The meat should be cold enough, but it will not easily be removed from the bone. Some bones will have fallen off at this point. Discard the bones that have already separated from the meat.
10. In another pot of equal or greater capacity, heat the fat on medium high and sauté the garlic and onion. Alternatively, transfer the ribs and tripe to a plate, and the stock to a large bowl. Sauté the garlic and onion with the fat in the same pot. If you have less that 5 tablespoons of fat, add the canola oil. But, it's doubtful that the canola will be needed. Turn down the heat to medium and sweat the diced onion.
    
    Tip: Add a pinch of salt to the onions so that they "sweat" better.
    
11. Once the onion becomes translucent, turn down the heat and add the peanut butter, tomatoes and achuete oil. Stir to combine. The mixture should turn a ruddy orange because of the achuete oil. Cook until the tomatoes soften.
12. Add the stock to the pot. Increase the heat to medium high. Stir to combine. Once it starts to boil, turn the heat down to medium and let cook for about 15 minutes.
13. Add the oxtails and tripe to the pot. Increase the heat to medium high. As the meat warms, more of the meat will fall off the bone. Fish the orphaned bones and discard. This should be easier if you scored the connective tissue. Cook for about 15 - 20 minutes. The liquid should reduce.
14. Blanch or steam the long beans, the egg plant and bok choy in a different vessel. If steaming, sprinkle some salt on the vegetables to taste once they become cooked to your liking.
15. Add the vegetable to the main pot and continue cooking uncovered for another 5 - 10 minutes, or until the stock turns into a gravy or a nappe consistency, where it coats the back of a spoon.
16. Salt to taste.
17. If you want a thicker gravy, let the stew cool and then serve over rice with a side of fermented shrimp paste.