Arroz Caldo in Your Rice Cooker

Arroz Caldo (or lugaw) is a Filipino-style congee (rice porridge or rice gruel) commonly eaten for breakfast or fed to the sick or to infants. The rice is simmered in a higher ratio of water than what would normally be used to cook/steam it. The kernels are softer and broken, no longer retaining their shape. The starch in the rice leeches into the cooking liquid making it thicker and more viscous. It takes on a stew-like consistency.

The English term is “congee” derived from Tamil and it is commonly used in Chinese restaurants. The Chinese terms (粥), however, are “zhou” (Mandarin) and “jook” (Cantonese). “Congee” will be the English term I’ll use for the rest of this post.

Pinning Down Terms

Filipinos tend to use lugaw (Tagalog) and arroz caldo (Spanish, lit. “rice broth”) interchangeably. But, after doing some research, it appears that lugaw is plain congee. The preparation is rather simple: simmer rice in a large amount of liquid until the kernels break apart and the desired consistency is achieved. After cooking, other ingredients are added such as pork, chicken, sliced hard-boiled eggs and garnished with friend garlic, scallions and saffron. The preparation for arroz caldo is similar -- rice simmered in a large amount of liquid. However, the ingredients are added during the cooking process, instead. Common ingredients include ginger, garlic, onions, fish sauce and chicken. These are cooked with the rice in water or chicken stock. And, like lugaw, diners can add friend garlic, more fish sauce and scallions.

This recipe will concentrate on arroz caldo and cooking it in a rice cooker instead of on the stove top. I’ve cooked arroz caldo on the stove top many times. If you don’t keep stirring or minding the heat, the rice tends to scorch on the bottom of the pot. When I searched online for recipes for congee, one article piqued my interest. Its approach was to cook in a rice cooker.

Yes, in the Rice Cooker!

6 Ways to Make Rice Porridge or Congee was written by the owner of “Home-Made Chinese Soups”, Phoebe. Among the six ways she mentions is to use a rice cooker. I thought it was brilliant idea since rice cookers will reach a certain cooking temperature and maintain the food at that temperature until done. You, the cook don’t have to constantly fiddle with the temperature so the rice won’t scorch. Some more sophisticated and expensive cookers already have a congee setting. Score! My approach, however, will not assume that yours has a “congee” setting. I’m assuming yours (and mine) is a very basic unit.

Arroz caldo is thicker, more viscous than Chinese congee which Phoebe talks about in her article, so according to the section two, “How much water?”, I used a rice to liquid/water ratio of 1:4. Because this is arroz caldo and not lugaw, I sautéed the aromatic ingredients in the cooker with some oil until fragrant and then added the rice treating it like risotto. Once the rice kernels were well coated in oil, I added the liquid. Instead of adding onions, I decided to use a shortcut and added onion soup mix. But, I have added below steps to use onions, instead. After the onion soup mix or the onions, I added bone-in chicken thighs. I checked every five minutes until it reached the consistency that I wanted and turned the cooker to warm. One thing I noticed, is that the cooker continued in the “cook” setting and never tripped back to “warm”. So, your unit may go to "warm" when it thinks it’s done. If it isn’t, flip it back to "cook" and continue. Flip it back to "warm" when you’re done.

Ingredients

• 1 Tablespoon vegetable oil
• 3 Cloves garlic minced
• 2 - 3 1/4” Discs of ginger
  [Another option is to use 1 Tablespoon minced ginger. I like the discs so that they can be pulled out while eating.]
• 1 Packet of onion soup mix
  [I used Lipton’s. But, you can use Knorr or another brand. Pay attention to the amount of water normally used on the packaging. You may not need to use the contents of the entire packet]
• 1 Cup (dry measure) long grain rice such as Jasmine
  [The choice of what kind of rice to use is up to you. I’ve seen short grain, long grain, a mix, glutinous, etc.; use what you have on hand.]
• 4 Cups water
• 3 Chicken thighs bone-in rinsed
  [You can use other chicken parts, bone-in or boneless. You may opt to remove the skin. But, I find that the skin imparts that “schmaltzy” flavor. Remove the skin once it’s done cooking if you prefer.]
• Condiments (optional):
  - Thinly sliced scallions
  - Sliced hard-boiled eggs
  - Saffron threads
  - Fish sauce (AKA “patis”)
  - Fried garlic

If you would not like to use the onion soup packet, you can use the following:

• 1 Medium onion sliced thin
• 1 Tablespoon fish sauce (AKA, “patis”, “nam pla”) (optional)
  -- OR --
• 2 pinches of salt (more to taste)

Directions

1. Wash the rice several times until the water becomes clear, drain and set aside.
2. Add the vegetable oil and the ginger to the inner pot of the rice cooker. Turn to the “cook” (or equivalent) setting.
3. Once the rice cooker reaches temperature, you will hear the ginger start to sizzle. (2 – 3 minutes) Sauté the ginger until fragrant.
4. Add the garlic and continue to sauté until fragrant.
5. If you are using the onion (not the soup packet), add the onion and sauté until translucent. Add a few pinches of salt to aid in sweating the onions.
6. Add the rice and stir for approximately five minutes.
7. Add the water.
8. If using the packet, stir in the contents of the packet until dissolved and the dehydrated onions absorb moisture.
9. Add the chicken and stir.
10. Cover and stir every 5 minutes.
11. Continue cooking until the arroz caldo thickens, the rice kernels break open and the chicken is cooked. Approximately, 30 to 40 minutes.
12. Remove chicken. Remove skin (optional), shred chicken and return to cooker.
13. Once the desired consistency is achieved turn off or set cooker to “warm” or turn off.
14. Serve in a bowl and top with friend garlic, scallions, saffron and hard boiled egg. Offer additional fish sauce on the side.

I don’t add much more than just a bit more patis to my bowl.

Notes

• Choose a rice cooker that can hold 8 or more cups of (cooked) rice. I tried this on my small 6-cup model and it was full up to the brim. I knew that it would over boil.
• If you are using the onion soup mix, do NOT add salt or fish sauce during cooking. The soup mix might have enough sodium as it is.
• Your cooker might switch to “warm” signifying that it thinks that the arroz caldo is done. If it isn’t switching it back to “cook” until you are done.
• The cooker may never switch to “warm” even when the arroz caldo is done. Switch it to “warm” when you feel it necessary.

Arroz Caldo: What to Do with Leftover Rice?

What to do with leftover rice from last night’s dinner? More often than not my family would turn it into fried rice the next day. This is why I don’t think of fried rice as a “main” dish; it’s a “leftover” dish for me. So, I don’t order it when I go out to eat.

There is an alternative option to this dilemma, however. And, that is to make arroz caldo!

If you aren’t familiar with arroz caldo, read my other post on how to make it in a rice cooker. Many of the same steps apply, except you won’t be using uncooked rice.

Ingredients

• 2 Tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 – 3 Cloves of garlic minced
• 3 1”x1/4” Coins of ginger or 1 1/2 Tablespoons of minced or grated ginger
  Coins are easier to fish out while eating 
• 1/2 Medium onion diced
• 2 Pinches of salt
• 3 – 4 Scallions sliced thin. Separate whites from greens
• 3 – 4 Chicken thighs, bone-in, skin on
• 6 – 8 Cups of water, chicken stock or broth
• 2 Cups leftover cooked rice
• 2 Tablespoons fish sauce (patis) or 1 Teaspoon of salt (optional)
• Ground pepper to taste about 1/2 a teaspoon

Directions

I’ve written the directions as if the rice cooker has been cleaned. That’s where the sautéing in the cooker comes in. But, if the cooked rice is still in the pot, read the next section. They’re similar steps, but they take into account that the other ingredients must be sautéed and browned before adding them to the cooker.

Clean cooker

1. Turn on the rice cooker to “cook” or its equivalent and add oil and ginger to the inner pot. The cooker will reach the proper temperature when the ginger begins to sizzle.
2. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant.
3. Add the chicken to the pot and brown.
4. Add the onion and sauté until translucent. Throw in a couple of pinches of salt to help sweat the onions.
5. Add the scallion whites and continue to sauté. Continue to brown the chicken.
6. Add the cooked rice, the water, black pepper and patis (if using). Cover.
7. Once the ingredient begin to boil, check the cooker every five minutes and stir until the rice kernels break and the arroz caldo reaches a thick, stew-like consistency. The rice cooker might switch to “warm”. If the arroz caldo still is not cooked, switch the cooker back to “cook” and continue to stir every five minutes. Once done, you may need to manually switch the cooker off or to “warm”.
8. Serve in a bowl with scallions, sliced hard-boiled eggs, saffron threads and add more fish sauce.

Rice is still in the cooker

1. Leave the equivalent of two cups in the cooker.
2. Add the water or broth to the cooker and switch the cooker to “cook”.
3. In a skillet heat the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmer, add the ginger and sauté until fragrant.
4. Add the garlic and continue to sauté until it too becomes fragrant.
5. Add the chicken and brown.
6. Add the onion and sauté until translucent. Throw in a couple of pinches of salt to help sweat the onions.
7. Add the scallion whites and continue to sauté. Continue to brown the chicken.
8. Transfer all the ingredients to the rice cooker. Add black pepper and patis (if using) and cover.
9. Once the ingredient begin to boil, check the cooker every five minutes and stir until the rice kernels break and the arroz caldo reaches a thick, stew-like consistency. The rice cooker might switch to “warm”. If the arroz caldo still is not cooked, switch the cooker back to “cook” and continue to stir every five minutes. Once done, you may need to manually switch the cooker off or to “warm”.
10. Serve in a bowl with scallions, sliced hard-boiled eggs, saffron threads and add more fish sauce.

Mongolian Beef

Mongolian beef is a common menu item in many of the Chinese restaurants I’ve eaten at. Although its name implies its origin, it’s not Mongolian at all. It’s original method of cooking on a large open surface, similar to teppanyaki such as Benihana, is supposed to be reminiscent of Mongolian cooking traditions, but it has not such ties. Go figure.

I’ve tried a few recipes in the past. They’ve called for oyster sauce or hoisin sauce. Yet, after following them to the letter, none resulted in what I am accustomed to in Seattle’s International District (ID) or “Chinatown”. The beef oftentimes came out too tough or rubbery because it was cooked too long in the sauce because it needed to reduce to get that nice shimmering gloss that one would expect at the restaurant. So, my goal was to find a simple and elegant recipe that resulted in tender and flavorful strips of beef covered in a luxurious, glossy sauce. It had to taste “balanced” as well, not too sweet and not too salty.

I came across one recipe on Yummly that fit my criteria. It’s from the blog “The Woks of Life”, a blog shared by four authors who specialize in authentic Chinese cuisine. The recipe is “Mongolian Beef, An ‘Authentic’ Recipe” written by Bill. I have followed the recipe several times and achieved great results. There was once, however, when I got two important steps backwards while I was making the sauce. I added the cornstarch slurry directly to the wok and forgot to add the soy sauce and chicken stock. The slurry seized up are resembled egg whites. It was early in the process and I should have started over, but I continued, regardless, trying to save it. The result was a gloppy mess and very unappetizing to look at, but it still was very flavorful. It just didn’t have a great mouth feel. Lesson learned.

Another fact about this dish that I like is that it incorporates only scallions (or green onions). I’ve seen Mongolian beef covered in onions to the point that it should be called “Onions with Mongolian Beef”. The onions just over power the main ingredient. Using only scallions made this recipe more appealing. My friend Dimitri once pointed out that the instances he had the worst Mongolian Beef he had was from restaurants that used large amounts of onions to cover up the poorly cooked beef. Point noted. If you come across Mongolian Beef drowning in onions, better hope that it’s edible and you might consider another restaurant.

After mentioning this recipe to my friends, they clamored for me to share it and to add the “gotchas” like the one I just mentioned. I don’t deviate much from the original. I’ve only added a few tips.

This is for you, Colin, Dimitri and Mr. Eddie Faddah. Enjoy!

Ingredients

Marinade

• 1 Tablespoon of cornstarch
• 1 Teaspoon sesame oil
• 1 Teaspoon soy sauce

Main

• 1 lb. Flank steak cut into 1/4” thin strips
  I’ve used chuck a few times. You just have to make sure to trim it well removing any sinewy material.
• 1/4 Cup cornstarch for dredging the marinated beef slices
• 1/3 Cup vegetable oil
• 1/2 Teaspoon minced ginger
  You might also consider cutting the ginger into 1/4” discs instead. It will make it easier to remove while eating. 
• 5 Dried red chili peppers or 1/2 teaspoon of chili flake (optional)
  I used chili flake since it was on hand. Adjust to the level of spice that you prefer or omit.
• 3 – 4 Cloves garlic minced
  The original calls for two. I fancy more garlic.
• 1/4 Cup low-sodium soy sauce, e.g., Kikkoman Low Sodium Soy Sauce
  The emphasis is on the low sodium. If you use regular soy sauce, used just a bit less, otherwise the sauce may turn out too salty.
• 1/4 Cup water or chicken stock
  If you’re using regular but  not a low sodium soy sauce, add a bit more water or chicken stock. You will want to maintain the amount of liquid to a little over 1/2 a cup.
• 2 Tablespoons brown sugar
  I sometime omit the sugar. I just don’t have a sweet tooth. If you are using a soy sauce with caramel, use less sugar to offset the sugar already found in the soy sauce. Those with caramel are Chinese and some Philippine brands and Aloha Shoyu.
• Cornstarch slurry – 1 Tablespoon cornstarch stirred in 1 - 2 tablespoons of warm water
  Make sure that the water is warm to make it easier to stir. The original calls for 1 tablespoon, but 2 should be enough to make the slurry “looser” and easier to work with.
• 4 Scallions (or green onions). Slice the whites thinly. Cut the green parts into 1 inch sections diagonally. Keep separate since each part of the scallion will be used at different steps in the process.
  The original calls for just two scallions. Although I don’t like too many onions in mine, I do want just a little bit more than what the original calls for. Also, the whites are hardier than the greens. The whites will be added first and the greens toward the end to keep their color.

Directions

Marinate the beef

1. Combine the sesame oil, the soy sauce in a mixing bowl.
2. Add the beef and coat well.
3. Sprinkle the tablespoon over the beef.
4. Set aside for at least 1 hour.

I usually leave the beef covered on the counter so it reaches room temperature instead of putting it in the refrigerator. Not only will be be easier to separate the slices, it will cook a bit faster.

While the beef is marinating, you can prepare the other ingredients such as slicing the scallions or re-reading this recipe.

Sear the Beef

 

1. Dredge the beef in the 1/4 cup of cornstarch making sure that each slice is lightly dusted and all sides coated.
2. Heat the vegetable oil in a wok on high.
3. When the oil shimmers, add the beef in one even layer. You will need to work in batches depending on the size of your wok.
4. Sear on one side for 1 minute, then flip and sear on the other side for up to a minute more.
5. Once the batch is seared, remove from the wok and set aside. The beef should appear with a nice browned crust.
   The original recipe suggests placing the beef on a sheet pan tilted to drain any excess oil. I just place mine on a plate without draining.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the next batch until all the beef is seared.
   

Create the Sauce

1. Once all the beef is seared, pour off all except 1 tablespoon of the oil and heat over medium-high.
2. Add the ginger and the chilies or chili flake and sauté.
3. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant.
4. Add the whites of the scallions and sauté.
5. Add the 1/4 cup soy sauce and 1/4 cup of chicken stock (or water) and turn down the heat to medium.
6. Dissolve the sugar and continue to simmer. 
7. Stir in the cornstarch slurry a bit at a time until the sauce reaches a nape consistency.
   A nape consistency is when the sauce coats the back of a spoon with a glossy sheen as in the picture below. You may not need to add all of the slurry, however. Adding all of the slurry might result in a very thick, viscous sauce similar to gravy.

Finish

1. Add the seared beef to the wok and toss in the sauce to coat.
2. Add the scallions. Stir until just wilted.
3. Serve and enjoy.

Ways to Make Your Food Suck – Tell the Reader Your Food Can Be Harmful

The point of any food blog is to share the authors’ love of food. It should be focused just on that – The food. The reader assumes that the author is very familiar about the food they write about. But, if you say that there is something off-putting about it, then the reader will take that into consideration and will pass on the recipe, the post or the entire blog. Or, the author likes to put on the nutritionist’s or doctor’s cap when they might not have any medical background. It’s like saying, “Here’s my recipe and I’m proud to share it with you. But, here’s the bad thing about it”. The blogger has just said, “this stuff is toxic”.

 

I don’t understand why a blogger would disparage their food. What’s the point in spending the time and effort to write a recipe and snap some shots of a food that your, the blogger, is saying is “not good”?

 

It’s important to watch what you say about your food and to keep the food in a good light. Here are some phrases that are a definite turn off and tell the reader “my food can harm you”.

 

“Eat in Moderation”

 

I find it irritating when I see “Eat in moderation”. There is one blog where there are a handful of recipes with this phrase. Granted, the dishes aren’t something that you would cook on a daily basis (or, would you?). Nevertheless, I came looking for recipes, NOT advice!

 

Thanks, but no thanks.

 

Any adult with some basic knowledge about diet would know what foods to eat more of and what to eat on occasion. Less fat, less salt, less sugar… More fiber, more fruits, more vegetables… etc. Blah, blah, blah! We know! We know! It should be assumed that the reader has enough discretion. Give them that much credit.

 

“Eat at Your Own Risk”

Nowhere have I ever seen this phrase in a recipe except for one blog post…

“Pampabata [something to make you younger] is a word used to describe a food that is not really good for health… This dish is the official ‘pampabata’ recipe from my kitchen. EAT AT YOUR OWN RISK!” [sic] (Mely’s Kitchen, emphasis mine)

REALLY?! SERIOUSLY?!

 

It might have been added as a bit of a joke or gimmick to grab attention, but it’s the first thing that your eyes go to! It grabbed my attention. It, too, advises to “eat in moderation”… C’mon! But, justifiably so since it just pork fat.

 

The reason why it is called “pampabata” is because of the collagen in the fat. Collagen is used in many beauty creams for healthier skin. The author had the chance to offer that information but failed to do so. I would have liked to see a little more background on the dish because it must have an interesting history. Sadly, the author posted it as more of a curiosity since it might KILL. I guess beauty does have a price.

 

“Healthier”

Another thing I’ve noticed is that some authors like to claim that their cooking is “healthier”. Yet, they don’t go into detail as to how they have made the recipe “healthier”. A good scenario is the reader who knows little or nothing about the dish (such as I did when it came to some of the recipes on one blog). The reader’s first impression is that the food isn’t good for you. Great intro!

 

In some cases, it’s an ingredient that is commonly used that been omitted. For example…

“I do not put flavor enhancers (msg.( vetsin), pork powder, chicken powder, beef powder and all the cube flavor enhancers) to my recipes, either you use it or not it's up to you.” [sic]

(Mely’s Kitchen)

It’s fine that she doesn’t add these to her recipes. That’s great! She adds that it’s up to the reader to use such ingredients. What’s lacking is where these ingredients are use or how. How is the reader to decide? If there is an ingredient that can be optional then tag it in the recipe. It possible that the reader would like to try to cook the dish in it’s original form for various reasons. Give them that option.

 

In one of my blog posts, I explain how Sinigang is cooked with readily available mix packets which has become the norm. But, in my recipe I try to reach a more “authentic” recipe by using tamarind paste. I wanted to counter the popularity of the MSG- and salt-laden packets. But, I explain that in the post and neither do I claim that it’s in any way “healthier”. I let the reader decide if it seems “healthier”; otherwise, they can continue to use the packets.

 

I know of two cooks/chefs that have taken recipes and made a point of making them healthier. They are Graham Kerr, the “Galloping Groumet”, who took many of his own recipes and cut down the fat, salt, sugar, etc. At the end on his show, he shows how he’s reduced the numbers for each. Another is Bobby Deen, who “remastered” his mother’s, Paula Deen’s, Southern recipes making them healthier. In each case, they showcase the original recipe and show how they made it healthier at the end of each episode. In other words, they have evidence and facts to back up their claims. But, to claim that your recipe is “healthier” is really just a gimmick unless you can put money where your mouth is.

 

Celebrate the Food

Many of the readers are most probably aware of what they can and cannot eat for whatever reason – They don’t need to be coddled.

All in all, the thing to take away is to never denigrate the food. In fact, celebrate it! It doesn’t matter what the readers might think or how “horrible” it might be. If they like it, they will like it. If not, it’s their loss. What really matters is what you think. It’s your food! You as the “expert” and you need to educate the reader why you like your food so much.Talking bad about your food erodes away at your creditability; the confidence of your readers in you diminishes. If you put the food in a bad light, the reader will also have a bad opinion of the food. You know more about it than they do. You don’t need to give the reader a reason why they would not like your recipe nor attempt to cook your dish. Why in this world would you give them a chance to dislike your food? So, don’t. Or, stop writing about food immediately!

Technorati Tags: Blogging,food,recipes,writing

Why spend the time writing the recipe and sharing it with others if in the end it does no one any good?

Three Cup Chicken… My Way

A good friend of mine brought to my attention a Taiwanese dish called “Three Cup Chicken”. The three cups come from the main ingredients: one of cup soy sauce, one cup rice vinegar, and one cup of sesame oil. After reading the various recipes, the amounts vary and stay close to the “one cup” amount.

The following is based on a recipe I found on Food Republic. My version differs in the amount of ingredients and I have substituted the sugar for honey and the rice vinegar for sherry.

Ingredients

• 2 lbs. chicken thighs cut up into bite-size pieces. I’ve used de-boned thighs and removed the skin.
• 1/2 cup sesame oil
• 1 3-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled (with a teaspoon) sliced into thick discs
• 6 - 7 whole cloves of garlic crushed
• 1 bunch scallions. Cut the green part into one-inch sections. Reserve the whites.
• 2 to 3 small Thai chilies, halved or sliced
• 1/2 cup sherry
• 1 cup soy sauce (I used Kikkoman brand). If you decide to use a soy sauce that contains caramel such as Swan or Aloha Shoyu, you may want to reduce the amount of honey.
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 2 packages or small bunches of Thai basil. (Don’t substitute with regular basil, since it is not as fragrant)

Directions

1. In a wok or large sauté pan, heat the sesame oil over medium-high heat.
2. Once the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic cloves and brown.
3. Add the ginger slices, the chilies and the whites of the scallions. Sauté until fragrant. 2 – 3 minutes.
4. Add the chicken in batches. After one batch turns color, add the next batch until all the chicken has browned. 6 – 8 minutes.
5. Add the sherry and soy sauce and bring to a boil for 5 minutes.
6. Turn down the heat and simmer for 15 – 20 minutes until the sauce reduces a bit. Longer if you want a darker color. Stirring occasionally.
7. Add the green part of the scallions and continue to simmer for another 5 minutes.
8. Take the wok off the heat and tear the Thai basil to release its aroma and add to the wok.
9. Serve!

This dish is so popular, that recipe videos abound on YouTube.

Here are a few that I could find:

• How to Cook Three-Cup Chicken
• Classic Taiwanese 3-Cup Chicken

Sinigang (Without the Packet)

Wikipedia

Sinigang (or “Sinig-ang” in some dialects of Tagalog) is a tangy, sour soup popular in Philippine cuisine. Commonly it consists of a protein, beef, pork, chicken or seafood and a soup soured by tamarind (Tagalog: “sampalok”), guava, calamondin or “golden lime” (Tagalog: “kalamansi”), bilimbi, unripe mango or miso paste. This recipe uses tamarind -- the most popular.

Tamarind comes in dried pods. But, before cooking, the pods are soaked in water until the seeds can be separated from the sticky, brown pulp. Both the seeds and the outer husk are discarded. This can take some time, so companies such as Knorr have created convenient packets that contain tamarind powder and other seasonings. When you read the ingredient list of these packets you will find… MSG.

Monosodium glutamate (MSG) isn’t a “bad” seasoning, but it’s gained a reputation. There are those who steer clear of it. As for me, I use it occasionally when a recipe calls for it. And, as far as the convenient packets go, I’ve needed to use two or three to achieve that same tanginess that I prefer. How many I would used would depend on what brand. That would spell more packets, more MSG.

I like the idea of having more control over the seasonings I use and using only the tamarind fruit eschewing the packets. But, I just don’t have the experience with removing the fruit. I found a middle ground between convenience and real ingredients, however: tamarind concentrate or paste.

Living in Seattle, I was able to find tamarind concentrate and/or paste in various Asian supermarkets such as Viet Wah, HT Market near Oak Tree Cinemas in North Seattle or at the Uwajimaya in the International District/Chinatown.  Nevertheless, in this day and age tamarind concentrate/paste can be bought online via Amazon.com and the like.

I used about four tablespoons in my latest attempt. I was able to achieve that same zest that the friend that I was cooking for was surprised that I didn’t use a packet. Since I started cooking this way, I have only used tamarind concentrate with great results. I will never go back to the packets again!

Serves 4 - 6

Ingredients:

• 1 Tablespoon oil such as canola (“rapeseed”) or corn oil.
• 1 Medium onion diced
• 3 – 4 Garlic cloves smashed and minced

• A pinch or two of table salt
• 1 1/2 – 2 Lbs. Pork butt (AKA “shoulder”) cut into 1” cubes
• 3 – 4 Roma or plum tomatoes or 1 medium-sized tomato quartered
• Approximately 3 – 4 Cups of water to cover
• 2 – 4 Tablespoons tamarind concentrate or more it you want a tangier soup
• 1/2 Lb. Yard-long beans (“sitaw”), trimmed of their stems and cut into 1” pieces
• 1/2 Lb. Baby bok choy cut in quarters lengthwise

• (Optional) 1 Tablespoon fish sauce (“patis”) – You can substitute with one teaspoon (or less) of regular table salt

NOTES:

• Tomatoes – Most recipes I’ve read include tomatoes, but I’ve found that too much tomato can make the broth sweet, something you don’t want if you want a sour broth.
• The protein in this recipe is pork, but you can use beef or seafood. If you decide to use beef and good stew cut works well, but it might be necessary to cook longer to tenderize the beef.
• The yard-long beans and the bok choy are more of a suggestion. You can substitute any green, leafy vegetable in your dish.

Preparation:

1. Heat oil in a large pot such as 2 quart casserole or Dutch over medium high heat.
2. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic and give it a quick stir.
3. Once the garlic is fragrant (less than one minute), add the diced onion. Add a few pinches of salt to help the onions sweat and become translucent. (3 – 4 minutes)
4. Add the pork and sauté until all pieces turn color. (5 – 6 minutes)
5. Stir in and macerate the tomatoes. If using, stir in the patis or add additional salt. Cover and let cook for 5 minutes.
6. Add water. Stir in the tamarind concentrate. Add one tablespoon at a time and taste. If it is as tangy as you want it at two tablespoons, stop. If you want it tangier, add another. But, make sure to stir and taste after each spoonful. Once it’s in, you can’t take it out!
7. Cover again and let cook for another 5 minutes.
8. Add the yard long beans. Cover again and cook for another 5 minutes.
9. Give the soup a stir. Add the bok choy; cover and cook for another 5 minutes.
10. At this point you can turn down the heat to medium-low and cook covered for another 10 – 20 minutes to allow the flavors to meld and for the pork to become tender.
11. Serve the soup with pork and vegetables in a bowl. Put steamed rice on a plate and pour a few tablespoons of patis into a small dipping bowl as a condiment.

Eating “Wet and Dry”

Sinigang is one of many dishes that can be eaten “wet and dry” in Filipino cuisine. What is meant by this is that the soup (the “wet”) is spooned over the rice (the “dry”) bit by bit as you eat. The rice in never soaked 100%. Fish out the pork or the vegetables and place onto the wet rice, spoon some of the condiment (here patis) over the protein and vegetables. Fill the spoon with the rice, soup and the pork and vegetables so you have everything in one bite. Enjoy!

Patis: Fish Sauce

Fish sauce is a very ancient cooking ingredient popular in South-East Asia. Essentially, it is the liquid extracted from fermented fish mixed with salt. Many fish sauces comprise mostly of anchovies, but other sauces will include other types of fish and sometimes spices.

It is not unknown in Western cooking, however. It was known by the Greeks as early as the fourth or third century BCE. The Romans used garum or liquamen who mixed it with wine, honey or vinegar. In fact, Worcestershire sauce has its origin in the Greco-Roman condiment.

Because of fish sauce’s fermented nature, it is pungent in both smell and flavor. Having said that, it should be used sparingly as both an ingredient and as a condiment. Remember: A little can go a very, very long way.

Making fish sauce is rather simple: Mix fish and salt together and then wait for the liquid to seep out. The main thing that must be kept in mind is the ratio between fish and salt (3:2). Too much salt, and you are preserving and drying out to fish; too much fish and you’re creating a smelly mess.

After making mine, I did not buy any fish sauce for three or four years! For one, I made a lot; and, two, I used it sparingly.

My recipe calls for only one fish (anchovies) and salt. There are no other ingredients needed.

Making fish sauce at home is for the hard-core home cook.

Disclaimer: There is a potential for food poisoning should you follow the steps below. Attempt at your own risk. Otherwise, just read on out of curiosity.

Ingredients:

The weights of the ingredients are a starting point. Adjust the amounts according to how much you wish to make. Maintain the weight ratio and you should be off to a good start. Remember: 3:2!

• 2lbs. Anchovies – If you can get freshly caught anchovies, that would be the best option. Otherwise, using frozen anchovies is the next best alternative. Make sure to thaw the fish.
• 3lbs. Rock Salt – This type of salt allows for the juices from the fish to “filter” out. Kosher salt would also work because of its coarseness. Anything finer such as table salt may not be to your advantage. Remember this is by weight and not by volume.

Tools:

• Latex gloves – This will keep the smell off of your hands as you work.
• One-gallon (at least) air-tight container – Make sure that it has a wide mouth and that it is air-tight to keep the smell in check.
• Turkey baster – Used for siphoning.
• Coffee filters – Used to remove sediment.
• Funnel – Used with the coffee filter.
• Air-tight container – This will be used to store the liquid.
• Serving container – This should be air-tight as well because the liquid will evaporate when not used.

Preparation:

These are directions that I got from my mother whom I have seen make patis/bugguong. The very first step is optional.

1. (Optional) Place the fish in a tightly covered pan or bowl and leave it on the counter for two to three days. If you are using frozen, do not open the bag. Yes! You read that right! The fish will be left out in the open for a couple of days. Leave it out for more days if you are daring. So, keep it tightly covered or place in somewhere else, say the garage, where it will not be disturbed. After the first couple of days, it will reek. I mean really reek!
2. When the fish is “ready” (if you’ve chosen to follow step one), or if you haven’t, and the fish is thawed or fresh, layer the bottom of you container with about 1/4” of the salt. Take some of the fish and make a 1/4” layer on top of the salt. Repeat layering salt and fish. Close the container tightly and store the container at room temperature where it will not be disturbed.
3. In two or three days, carefully open the container. The fermentation process may have already started and the smell will be overwhelming. If you followed the first step, bubbles may have formed and the liquid may have risen. You have need to give the mixture a stir to release any pockets of gas that might have formed in the layers. Once you are done, close the container tightly.
4. For about one month, check the container about every two or three days to stir the mixture. With each passing check, you will find that the smell will mellow considerably and will reek less. At the end of month, it should smell like fish sauce. If it still does not smell characteristically like fish sauce give it another two weeks to another month.
5. Once it smells mellower and like fish sauce, siphon some of the liquid using the turkey baster. Run the siphoned liquid through a coffee filter and into another air-tight container to remove the grey sediment. You will find that you might need to use a few filters before you fill the container you’re using to store the finished product for long term.
6. Use it as you would regular patis that you would otherwise have bought at the store.

Sources:

1. Fish Sauce (Wikipedia)
2. All About Fish Sauce (Nam Pla)
3. How Fish Sauce Is Made
4. Worcestershire sauce

Sammy's Ramen

Tonight after coming home I decided to make something with ramen, the typical food of the college-aged kid. Mind you, it's not something I had very much when I was going to college. But, ramen does remind me of my mom who used to give it to us for lunch when we were younger. The best part of it was that she would crack an egg into the broth – my favorite part.

I couldn't devise a good name for this dish, so I decided to name this after the cat with whom I live: Sammy. He was the first to greet me when I came home.

Ingredients:

• 1/4 Lb. of pork. I used the "country style" pork ribs (boneless). Cut into 1/4 inch slices.
• One pack of ramen. Choose any brand you like, but set aside the "flavor packet". Use it for something else if you want or just throw it away. I will have to try with “fresh” ramen.
• 3 - 4 cups of water
• 1 - 3 Tablespoons of fish sauce or soy sauce. Add according to taste. This will be a salty broth.
• 3 - 4 Scallion (green onion) stalks. Sliced. Separate the white from the green.
• 1 Tablespoon of sesame oil
• 1/4 Teaspoon of grated ginger. Or, if you're too anxious, 1 - 2 1/4 inch thick slices.
  

Directions:

1. Mix the pork with the fish sauce or soy sauce in a small bowl.
2. In a medium-size sauce pan, bring to a boil the water and the white part of the scallions.
3. Once boiling add the sliced pork and cook until the pork changes color. 3 - 4 minutes.
4. Remove the pork and set aside.
5. Turn down the heat to medium.
6. Put the pack of ramen and cook for 1 - 3 minutes until the noodles soften. Do not cook until mushy.
7. Add the sesame oil and stir into the noodles.
8. Stirring constantly, cook for another 2 - 3 minutes.
9. Portion out the noodles into each bowl.
10. Portion out the pork slices on top of the noodles.
11. Pour broth into each bowl over the pork and noodles.
12. Garnish with the green part of the scallions.
13. Slurp to your hunger's content.

Bistek Tagalog

Technorati Tags: Filipino,Beef,Onions,Garlic,Tagalog,Soy Sauce,Calamondin,Kalamansi

A friend of mine today, Chris, decided to cook Bistek Tagalog. From the looks of it, he did a great job. With his permission, I’m sharing his family recipe with you, the readers.

(Image used with permission)

Bistek Tagalog is a simple dish with only a few ingredients. It that consists of thin slices of beef marinated in soy sauce and calamondin juice. The slices are fried to which the marinade is added and reduced to create a tangy sauce. As a coup de grace, caramelized onion rings are added. In Chris’ version here he adds potatoes.

The calamondin featured in this dish, also known as “kalamansi” or “calamansi”, is a small citrus fruit native to SE Asia commonly used in Philippine cuisine as an ingredient or as a condiment.  Frozen calamondin juice can be found in stores that specialize in Asian foods. The juice of limes or lemons can be used as substitutes.

Ingredients:

• 1 lb. of sirloin steak sliced thin. Other cuts to use are flank and skirt steak.
  • (TIP: To make it easier to make the slices very thin, place the beef in the freezer for at least 30 minutes.)
• 1 medium onion sliced and separated into rings
• 3 cloves minced garlic
• 1/2 cup soy sauce. Chris used Kikkoman brand. If you would like a sweeter soy sauce, use the Swan or Aloha Shoyu brands.
• 3 tablespoons of calamondin juice. Use lemon or lime juice if calamondin juice is unavailable.
• 2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and more for serving.
• 1 – 2 pinches of salt (for wilting the onions)
• 3 tablespoons of neutral oil for frying, such as canola.

Directions:

1. In a large bowl whisk to combine the soy sauce, the calamondin juice and pepper in a large bowl. Taste and adjust the amount of soy sauce, calamondin juice and pepper to your liking.
2. Add the beef slices and coat with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least half an hour. One (1) hour or longer is better. Turn the slices over once half-way through. Avoid marinating the beef for longer than four (4) as you will chemically cook the meat before starting.
3. Remove the slices of beef from the marinade and set aside. Reserve the marinade.
4. In a large skillet or frying pan, heat oil over medium-high heat.
5. Sauté the onion rings until caramelized and wilted. Add a pinch of salt to help them wilt easier. Set aside.
6. Add the beef slices in batches to the pan and fry until browned. Set aside.
7. Sauté the garlic and add the reserved marinade. Bring the garlic and marinade to a boil.
8. Turn down the heat to low to medium-low. Add the beef back to the pan and add the potato. Simmer for 20 minutes.
9. Add the onion and more ground pepper to taste.
10. Serve with steamed white rice.

How to do that turkey justice this Thanksgiving

It’s that time of year in the US when we are called upon to give thanks for the many things in our lives. It’s Thanksgiving, the biggest food holiday of the year. It inaugurates the holiday season; Christmas is just around the corner. Aside from Pilgrims who came over on the Mayflower, the one thing on almost every American’s mind is that iconic and noble bird that Benjamin Franklin wanted as our national symbol: The turkey.

(Unless you’re vegan/vegetarian, then Tofurky might come to mind, instead. I’ve tried it. Won’t touch the stuff. It’s gross.)

Roast the Turkey… Simple, right?

Some households will try frying their turkeys. But, it can be fraught with danger, if not done safely. I’ve heard of a story or two where people have been burned from the hot oil that spatters to house fires leaving the cook and guests without a roof over their heads. I’ve had wild turkey fried and it was great. No one got burned nor did our hosts lose their home. Nevertheless, the absolute most common way to prepare this bird is roasting. Depending on its weight and the method, it can take a few hours. Once the bird is out of the oven and rested it’s time to carve and serve. It’ll be the most succulent and juicy, right?

I don’t know about your experiences, but for the most part of my childhood and into my young adulthood, turkey has never been my favorite. Why? It’s because each and every Thanksgiving or any other occasion it is served, it was dry. I would go for the thighs and legs thinking that those portions would be better. Nope! Much to my disappointment, no they were not. I always stayed away from the breast especially because it’s notorious for being the driest part of the bird.

But, hey! That’s why gravy is important, right?

No amount of gravy can make this bird’s flesh any juicier. But, there’s time-tested method to keep it from ending up drier than the Sahara and that’s basting… Or, is it?

“Everyone Knows that Basting Keeps it Moist…”

So, they say… Basting is supposed to keep the bird moist. That’s why basters also go fast at the local super market during this time of year. What’s more simple than loading up a gigantic pipet (like in the image) or ladling up a huge serving spoon and bathing the bird with the juices that had run out of the bird during its time in the oven. As the “logic” goes, do this from time to time until the pop-up timer tells you it’s done and what will result is a edible, delectable turkey that everyone will fawn over, consume and enjoy.

Basting might be “tried and true”, but it makes little sense. As the bird cooks in the dry heat of the oven, its skin become more and more impermeable. In other words, no liquids can pass in or out. What you’re basting the bird with, the juices that run out, is what you want to keep in! You can baste until the cows come home, but you can never get those juices to go back in. It won’t reach the flesh underneath. Don’t try the injection basting method, either; you just give more pathways for the moisture to run out! If anything, basting the bird only serves to keep the skin moist. But, who wants that?  In addition, having to open the over door will add to the cooking time. The heat escapes and the temperature dips. The oven has to heat up to the desired temperature once again. Do this often enough and soon dinner becomes a late night affair.

I’m not an advocate for basting and have never basted any of the turkeys I’ve roasted… EVER!

So, how do you prevent the moisture from seeping out to begin with? You load the turkey up with moisture before you even begin. “How is that done”, you say? Brining.

Brining is the Way to Go

Even with my childhood horrors with dry turkey, I’ve enjoyed turkey breast as a lunch meat. It’s always been moist. No doubt about that. But, why? Many brine their turkeys and it appears as a “salt solution” in their ingredient listing.

In the past decade, I’ve seen more and more cooks swear by brining their turkeys. The first indications of this trend was an episode of  Alton Brown’s show on The Food Network, “Good Eats”.  When I saw the episode “Romancing the Bird”, I knew that this was the solution to a dry turkey.

Alton has a good way of activating that analytical side of my brain when it comes to cooking. Some viewers might think it’s a little too “nerdy” to know the science behind the process, but I’m always curious finding out the what, how and why. Much about the science of brining just made sense.

Watching this segment of the episode convinced me:

Brining Secrets

In summary, basting… 1)Does nothing for flavor or texture and 2)opening the oven door slows cooking down as I mentioned.

• A brine is a solution of salt and water that encourages osmosis. Osmosis is a process where the cell walls allow moisture to move from one area of lower concentration to an area of higher concentration to establish equilibrium. In short, the water moves in and out and carries the seasoning into the bird.

The recipe can be found here if you don’t want to watch the episode or the clip: Good Eats Roast Turkey.

Here’s another video with Iron Chef Alex Guarnaschelli and Aarón Sánchez How to Bring a Turkey.

Videos and recipes abound on YouTube with recipes to brine your turkey! Choose one and you will never baste your turkey again.

Brining is so versatile that aside from turkey, there are also a few recipes to brine other cuts of meat, such as pork chops.

Anne Burrel Brines her Chops!

But, before I go into my experiences with brining, I want to digress and share a memory that comes to mind every Thanksgiving and every time I hear the work “turkey”. It’s rather a sore spot for me which is why I won’t soon forget. It fixes my resolve, however, to brine my turkey… Always.

Take the Turkey and Shove it!

About 10 years ago when I was living in the University District in Seattle, a friend’s boy friend had just recently moved in with me. I was assured that Mike was a good guy, but I had my suspicions that he wasn’t the brightest. I tried to have conversations about his day when we lived together, but I could never follow his train of thought. I only grew frustrated with each and every conversation because I always felt like the dumb one. He always seemed to get mad at me for trying to keep up by asking questions. In the end, I stopped caring.

It was before Thanksgiving and Mike’s parents gave him a turkey. I had watched the “Good Eats” episode on brining and suggested that Mike give that a shot. His response was blunt and tainted with condescension, “That’s not how you keep the turkey juicy! You baste it! That’s how my grandmother does it!”

They roasted the turkey and his grandmother should have done it instead. I didn’t have it, but my friend came back to say that it was dry and that Mike should have listened.

Mike should have listened, indeed! It was an “I told you so!” moment.

About a month later, the January of the next year, Mike up and left. All I got was a voice message saying that he couldn’t stay because his hours at work were cut. It was snowing in Seattle at the time and he called in too many times on account of it. Supposedly, the busses weren’t running which was a load of shit and his supervisor knew it. Later on I finally heard the real reason: My friend didn’t want to hear me complain about how the rent. He didn’t want to hear me “complain” about how Mike would have been short on rent. He succeeded; he didn’t hear about the rent. What he got an earful of, was something else, something that to this day, I’ve not forgotten.

I had enrolled into a competitive testing certificate program before the close of the University of Washington’s Winter quarter. I had worked hard on my resume and cover letter. I managed to get statements from my manager and others I had worked with to get into the program. I was lucky enough to get in. After Mike’s departure, however, I had to call much to my chagrin on the day that classes started to give up my seat explaining my situation. I had to use the money that would have gone to that program for rent since Mike left.

My “friend” heard about that instead. Although, he apologized, I have never truly accepted his apologies for vetting Mike to be my roommate and for urging Mike’s departure. It caused me to miss a great opportunity to improve my chances in my career. Had Mike just worked things out, I would have received that certification. I never was able to get into the program since. My suspicion is that it was because of how I had to give up my seat.

Thanks for the memories, Mike and M*****!

Go Forth and Brine

Years ago when I lived in a town house in Greenwood, I was happy that our oven and range was gas. One Thanksgiving, I decided to host a get-together with my friend Chris and a few of our friends. My plan: Brine the turkey before roasting it.

Alton Brown show how to truss a turkey

I watched Alton Brown’s Good East video over and over again. I also watched his video on how to truss a turkey (How to Truss a Turkey). It helps to cook the bird evenly, makes it so that it’s easier to handle and makes for good presentation.

The result?

I received praise for the turkey. There wasn’t even a complaint of it being dry. Granted, I did undercook it slightly when I didn’t position the instant-read thermometer in the thigh right. I just popped those pieces in the oven and they didn’t dry out either. The brine did very well! One thing the surprised me was how juicy the breast turned out. I’ve become a new fan of turkey breast because of it. I’ve repeated the feat at least two other Thanksgivings after – Nothing but compliments.

I skipped last year. This year, however, I’m going to do it again.

I will stress: Never baste again!

A Favor

Do yourself and your guests a favor: Spare yourself and them from a turkey drier than Death Valley!

That turkey’s life was taken from it given to you so that you and yours might have a grand feast. Give its short life justice by cooking it right this Thursday! Or, at any festive dinner…

Happy Thanksgiving!

5 Ways to Make Your Food Suck

The purpose of any cooking show or blog is to showcase your point of view on food - that’s a no-brainer. Whatever dish or ingredient you are writing about, it should be shed in the best of light. You have gotten as far as having the reader watch your show or read your post. Now, you have to go further and continue to capture their attention and inspire their imagination or entertain them.

Having said that, I have seen various YouTube videos, watched cooking shows and read many blogs where there is just that one thing that turns me off. If I get “turned off”, I imagine that there are at least of a number of others who are off put also.

This is garbage. Want to make your food look or sound like this?

There are a few simple ways to turn the reader off. They might see your show, your video or channel, your post, and possibly your entire blog in a bad light.

You are the expert on whatever area or niche that interested your audience.

Here are five ways to make your food suck.

• Bad Writing

• Use the words the reader doesn't understand

• Tell the Reader Your Food is Harmful

• Take wrong or bad pictures

• Talk bad about the ingredients