Monday, March 23, 2015

Sammy's Ramen

RamenTonight after coming home I decided to make something with ramen, the typical food of the college-aged kid. Mind you, it's not something I had very much when I was going to college. But, ramen does remind me of my mom who used to give it to us for lunch when we were younger. The best part of it was that she would crack an egg into the broth – my favorite part.

I couldn't devise a good name for this dish, so I decided to name this after the cat with whom I live: Sammy. He was the first to greet me when I came home.

Ingredients:

  • 1/4 Lb. of pork. I used the "country style" pork ribs (boneless). Cut into 1/4 inch slices.
  • One pack of ramen. Choose any brand you like, but set aside the "flavor packet". Use it for something else if you want or just throw it away. I will have to try with “fresh” ramen.
  • 3 - 4 cups of water
  • 1 - 3 Tablespoons of fish sauce or soy sauce. Add according to taste. This will be a salty broth.
  • 3 - 4 Scallion (green onion) stalks. Sliced. Separate the white from the green.
  • 1 Tablespoon of sesame oil
  • 1/4 Teaspoon of grated ginger. Or, if you're too anxious, 1 - 2 1/4 inch thick slices.

Directions:

  1. Mix the pork with the fish sauce or soy sauce in a small bowl.
  2. In a medium-size sauce pan, bring to a boil the water and the white part of the scallions.
  3. Once boiling add the sliced pork and cook until the pork changes color. 3 - 4 minutes.
  4. Remove the pork and set aside.
  5. Turn down the heat to medium.
  6. Put the pack of ramen and cook for 1 - 3 minutes until the noodles soften. Do not cook until mushy.
  7. Add the sesame oil and stir into the noodles.
  8. Stirring constantly, cook for another 2 - 3 minutes.
  9. Portion out the noodles into each bowl.
  10. Portion out the pork slices on top of the noodles.
  11. Pour broth into each bowl over the pork and noodles.
  12. Garnish with the green part of the scallions.
  13. Slurp to your hunger's content.

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Bistek Tagalog

A friend of mine today, Chris, decided to cook Bistek Tagalog. From the looks of it, he did a great job. With his permission, I’m sharing his family recipe with you, the readers.

Bistek Tagalog
(Image used with permission)

Bistek Tagalog is a simple dish with only a few ingredients. It that consists of thin slices of beef marinated in soy sauce and calamondin juice. The slices are fried to which the marinade is added and reduced to create a tangy sauce. As a coup de grace, caramelized onion rings are added. In Chris’ version here he adds potatoes.


The calamondin featured in this dish, also known as “kalamansi” or “calamansi”, is a small citrus fruit native to SE Asia commonly used in Philippine cuisine as an ingredient or as a condiment.  Frozen calamondin juice can be found in stores that specialize in Asian foods. The juice of limes or lemons can be used as substitutes.

Ingredients:

  • 1 lb. of sirloin steak sliced thin. Other cuts to use are flank and skirt steak.
    • (TIP: To make it easier to make the slices very thin, place the beef in the freezer for at least 30 minutes.)
  • 1 medium onion sliced and separated into rings
  • 3 cloves minced garlic
  • 1/2 cup soy sauce. Chris used Kikkoman brand. If you would like a sweeter soy sauce, use the Swan or Aloha Shoyu brands.
  • 3 tablespoons of calamondin juice. Use lemon or lime juice if calamondin juice is unavailable.
  • 2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and more for serving.
  • 1 – 2 pinches of salt (for wilting the onions)
  • 3 tablespoons of neutral oil for frying, such as canola.

Directions:

  1. In a large bowl whisk to combine the soy sauce, the calamondin juice and pepper in a large bowl. Taste and adjust the amount of soy sauce, calamondin juice and pepper to your liking.
  2. Add the beef slices and coat with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least half an hour. One (1) hour or longer is better. Turn the slices over once half-way through. Avoid marinating the beef for longer than four (4) as you will chemically cook the meat before starting.
  3. Remove the slices of beef from the marinade and set aside. Reserve the marinade.
  4. In a large skillet or frying pan, heat oil over medium-high heat.
  5. Sauté the onion rings until caramelized and wilted. Add a pinch of salt to help them wilt easier. Set aside.
  6. Add the beef slices in batches to the pan and fry until browned. Set aside.
  7. Sauté the garlic and add the reserved marinade. Bring the garlic and marinade to a boil.
  8. Turn down the heat to low to medium-low. Add the beef back to the pan and add the potato. Simmer for 20 minutes.
  9. Add the onion and more ground pepper to taste.
  10. Serve with steamed white rice.

Monday, November 24, 2014

How to do that turkey justice this Thanksgiving

It’s that time of year in the US when we are called upon to give thanks for the many things in our lives. It’s Thanksgiving, the biggest food holiday of the year. It inaugurates the holiday season; Christmas is just around the corner. Aside from Pilgrims who came over on the Mayflower, the one thing on almost every American’s mind is that iconic and noble bird that Benjamin Franklin wanted as our national symbol: The turkey.

(Unless you’re vegan/vegetarian, then Tofurky might come to mind, instead. I’ve tried it. Won’t touch the stuff. It’s gross.)

Roast the Turkey… Simple, right?

Some households will try frying their turkeys. But, it can be fraught with danger, if not done safely. I’ve heard of a story or two where people have been burned from the hot oil that spatters to house fires leaving the cook and guests without a roof over their heads. I’ve had wild turkey fried and it was great. No one got burned nor did our hosts lose their home. Nevertheless, the absolute most common way to prepare this bird is roasting. Depending on its weight and the method, it can take a few hours. Once the bird is out of the oven and rested it’s time to carve and serve. It’ll be the most succulent and juicy, right?

I don’t know about your experiences, but for the most part of my childhood and into my young adulthood, turkey has never been my favorite. Why? It’s because each and every Thanksgiving or any other occasion it is served, it was dry. I would go for the thighs and legs thinking that those portions would be better. Nope! Much to my disappointment, no they were not. I always stayed away from the breast especially because it’s notorious for being the driest part of the bird.

But, hey! That’s why gravy is important, right?

No amount of gravy can make this bird’s flesh any juicier. But, there’s time-tested method to keep it from ending up drier than the Sahara and that’s basting… Or, is it?

“Everyone Knows that Basting Keeps it Moist…”

So, they say… Basting is supposed to keep the bird moist. That’s why basters also go fast at the local super market during this time of year. What’s more simple than loading up a gigantic pipet (like in the image) or ladling up a huge serving spoon and bathing the bird with the juices that had run out of the bird during its time in the oven. As the “logic” goes, do this from time to time until the pop-up timer tells you it’s done and what will result is a edible, delectable turkey that everyone will fawn over, consume and enjoy.

Basting might be “tried and true”, but it makes little sense. As the bird cooks in the dry heat of the oven, its skin become more and more impermeable. In other words, no liquids can pass in or out. What you’re basting the bird with, the juices that run out, is what you want to keep in! You can baste until the cows come home, but you can never get those juices to go back in. It won’t reach the flesh underneath. Don’t try the injection basting method, either; you just give more pathways for the moisture to run out! If anything, basting the bird only serves to keep the skin moist. But, who wants that?  In addition, having to open the over door will add to the cooking time. The heat escapes and the temperature dips. The oven has to heat up to the desired temperature once again. Do this often enough and soon dinner becomes a late night affair.

I’m not an advocate for basting and have never basted any of the turkeys I’ve roasted… EVER!

So, how do you prevent the moisture from seeping out to begin with? You load the turkey up with moisture before you even begin. “How is that done”, you say? Brining.

Brining is the Way to Go

Even with my childhood horrors with dry turkey, I’ve enjoyed turkey breast as a lunch meat. It’s always been moist. No doubt about that. But, why? Many brine their turkeys and it appears as a “salt solution” in their ingredient listing.

In the past decade, I’ve seen more and more cooks swear by brining their turkeys. The first indications of this trend was an episode of  Alton Brown’s show on The Food Network, “Good Eats”.  When I saw the episode “Romancing the Bird”, I knew that this was the solution to a dry turkey.

Alton has a good way of activating that analytical side of my brain when it comes to cooking. Some viewers might think it’s a little too “nerdy” to know the science behind the process, but I’m always curious finding out the what, how and why. Much about the science of brining just made sense.

Watching this segment of the episode convinced me:

Brining Secrets

In summary, basting… 1)Does nothing for flavor or texture and 2)opening the oven door slows cooking down as I mentioned.

  • A brine is a solution of salt and water that encourages osmosis. Osmosis is a process where the cell walls allow moisture to move from one area of lower concentration to an area of higher concentration to establish equilibrium. In short, the water moves in and out and carries the seasoning into the bird.

The recipe can be found here if you don’t want to watch the episode or the clip: Good Eats Roast Turkey.

Here’s another video with Iron Chef Alex Guarnaschelli and Aarón Sánchez How to Bring a Turkey.

Videos and recipes abound on YouTube with recipes to brine your turkey! Choose one and you will never baste your turkey again.

Brining is so versatile that aside from turkey, there are also a few recipes to brine other cuts of meat, such as pork chops.

Anne Burrel Brines her Chops!

But, before I go into my experiences with brining, I want to digress and share a memory that comes to mind every Thanksgiving and every time I hear the work “turkey”. It’s rather a sore spot for me which is why I won’t soon forget. It fixes my resolve, however, to brine my turkey… Always.

Take the Turkey and Shove it!

About 10 years ago when I was living in the University District in Seattle, a friend’s boy friend had just recently moved in with me. I was assured that Mike was a good guy, but I had my suspicions that he wasn’t the brightest. I tried to have conversations about his day when we lived together, but I could never follow his train of thought. I only grew frustrated with each and every conversation because I always felt like the dumb one. He always seemed to get mad at me for trying to keep up by asking questions. In the end, I stopped caring.

It was before Thanksgiving and Mike’s parents gave him a turkey. I had watched the “Good Eats” episode on brining and suggested that Mike give that a shot. His response was blunt and tainted with condescension, “That’s not how you keep the turkey juicy! You baste it! That’s how my grandmother does it!”

They roasted the turkey and his grandmother should have done it instead. I didn’t have it, but my friend came back to say that it was dry and that Mike should have listened.

Mike should have listened, indeed! It was an “I told you so!” moment.

About a month later, the January of the next year, Mike up and left. All I got was a voice message saying that he couldn’t stay because his hours at work were cut. It was snowing in Seattle at the time and he called in too many times on account of it. Supposedly, the busses weren’t running which was a load of shit and his supervisor knew it. Later on I finally heard the real reason: My friend didn’t want to hear me complain about how the rent. He didn’t want to hear me “complain” about how Mike would have been short on rent. He succeeded; he didn’t hear about the rent. What he got an earful of, was something else, something that to this day, I’ve not forgotten.

I had enrolled into a competitive testing certificate program before the close of the University of Washington’s Winter quarter. I had worked hard on my resume and cover letter. I managed to get statements from my manager and others I had worked with to get into the program. I was lucky enough to get in. After Mike’s departure, however, I had to call much to my chagrin on the day that classes started to give up my seat explaining my situation. I had to use the money that would have gone to that program for rent since Mike left.

My “friend” heard about that instead. Although, he apologized, I have never truly accepted his apologies for vetting Mike to be my roommate and for urging Mike’s departure. It caused me to miss a great opportunity to improve my chances in my career. Had Mike just worked things out, I would have received that certification. I never was able to get into the program since. My suspicion is that it was because of how I had to give up my seat.

Thanks for the memories, Mike and M*****!

Go Forth and Brine

Years ago when I lived in a town house in Greenwood, I was happy that our oven and range was gas. One Thanksgiving, I decided to host a get-together with my friend Chris and a few of our friends. My plan: Brine the turkey before roasting it.

Alton Brown show how to truss a turkey

I watched Alton Brown’s Good East video over and over again. I also watched his video on how to truss a turkey (How to Truss a Turkey). It helps to cook the bird evenly, makes it so that it’s easier to handle and makes for good presentation.

The result?

I received praise for the turkey. There wasn’t even a complaint of it being dry. Granted, I did undercook it slightly when I didn’t position the instant-read thermometer in the thigh right. I just popped those pieces in the oven and they didn’t dry out either. The brine did very well! One thing the surprised me was how juicy the breast turned out. I’ve become a new fan of turkey breast because of it. I’ve repeated the feat at least two other Thanksgivings after – Nothing but compliments.

I skipped last year. This year, however, I’m going to do it again.

I will stress: Never baste again!

A Favor

Do yourself and your guests a favor: Spare yourself and them from a turkey drier than Death Valley!

That turkey’s life was taken from it given to you so that you and yours might have a grand feast. Give its short life justice by cooking it right this Thursday! Or, at any festive dinner…

Happy Thanksgiving!

Thursday, October 2, 2014

5 Ways to Make Your Food Suck


The purpose of any cooking show or blog is to showcase your point of view on food - that’s a no-brainer. Whatever dish or ingredient you are writing about, it should be shed in the best of light. You have gotten as far as having the reader watch your show or read your post. Now, you have to go further and continue to capture their attention and inspire their imagination or entertain them.
Having said that, I have seen various YouTube videos, watched cooking shows and read many blogs where there is just that one thing that turns me off. If I get “turned off”, I imagine that there are at least of a number of others who are off put also.
This is garbage. Want to make your food look or sound like this?
There are a few simple ways to turn the reader off. They might see your show, your video or channel, your post, and possibly your entire blog in a bad light.
You are the expert on whatever area or niche that interested your audience.

Here are five ways to make your food suck.

White Adobo

WhiteAdobo_thumb[1]

Adobo a Puraw, Adobong Puti or “White Adobo” is yet another method of cooking what’s dubbed the “national” dish of the Philippines.

Filipino adobo is a method of cooking food in salt, garlic and vinegar – it is not a spice mixture as is adobo in Hispanic or Spanish cooking. Most commonly, the “salt” used is soy sauce introduced by Hokkien Chinese between the 10th and 11th centuries and gives the dish a brown color.

This dish, “White adobo”, harks back to a time before the introduction of soy sauce and uses plain salt instead. What it was called has been lost to history. This recipe uses chicken, but I imagine that pork can used as well. Pork belly would work well with this dish, too.

In searching for this recipe in “Kusina Masters” to “Adora’s Box”, I’ve traced their sources to the following blog post: “Adobong Puti (White Chicken Adobo) for Kulinarya Cooking Club”. My attempt differs slightly.

First of all, I used half the number of chicken thighs and I didn’t crisp the skin by browning it after braising. I just decided not to this time around. Maybe I’ll give it a shot and update this post.

Second, I’m not a fan of white vinegar – It’s just too strong for my palate.  Even just a fourth of a cup, seems too overpowering. (Yes, I’m Filipino.) I opted for “Sukang Iloko” which happens to have a bronze color and is milder. It’s similar in appearance to malt vinegar. Another vinegar would be fine; I’d just use 1/3 of a cup or less. Use the vinegar that suits your palate or whatever is readily available.

Third, I used about half as many garlic cloves or it’s equivalent, but minced. I would normally smash the whole cloves once they became soft, regardless. Why not cut to the chase?

And lastly, I used freshly ground black pepper and maybe a bit more salt. Trissalicious, the author of the post and recipe, doesn’t give an exact amount, so I had to start with a small amount at first then added more to get the right amount of saltiness. Did I mention that I have a salty palate? You can start with a bit less than suggested.

Ingredients:

  • 4 chicken thighs, bone-in (with skin on)
  • 1 - 2 tablespoons oil
  • 5 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
  • 1/2 cup Sukang Iloko (or less if using white vinegar or apple cider vinegar)
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 – 2 tablespoons of ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon of salt (or less)
  • 2 bay leaves

Preparation:

  1. Mix the salt and pepper. Season the chicken well on both sides rubbing into the skin. 
  2. Heat the oil in a pan over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the chicken thighs skin-side down to brown and crisp up the skin. Do not turn over. This should take about 3 – 4 minutes. But, if you want it a bit crispier, add few more minutes, but watch for burning. 
  3. Remove the chicken and set aside. Drain some of the rendered chicken fat leaving about a tablespoon in the pan.
  4. Sauté the garlic until fragrant (2 – 3 minutes). Add the bay leaves and stir until the leaves become fragrant. Add the vinegar to deglaze the pan. Use a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom and release the “fond”.
  5. Add the chicken skin-side up. Cook in the vinegar for about 5 minutes, then add the water.
  6. Cover and turn down the heat to medium-low to low and simmer for 15 minutes.
  7. Uncover and turn the chicken skin side down. Cover and continue simmering for another 15 minutes.
  8. Remove chicken and place on a serving plate.
  9. Reduce the sauce to about half. (15 – 20 minutes)
  10. When serving, set a thigh on rice and spoon some of the sauce over the chicken. Serve the rest of the sauce on the side.

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Chicken Adobo in Coconut Cream (Adobo a Manok iti Getta)

Adobo is a popular dish and is known by Filipinos and non-Filipinos alike. In fact, it’s been deemed as the “unofficial”, official national dish of the Philippines.

Adobo in the Philippines is a method of cooking using vinegar and salt (in this case soy sauce) that has long been used in the archipelago. It only shares its name with the Spanish term, adobo, which consists of a mix of spices and seasonings. Unfortunately, the original term used for this method of cooking has been lost to history.

Every family has its own variation with differing ratios of ingredients and methods, some, rather superstitious. In one family’s method, the pot should not be stirred once the vinegar has been added lest the adobo turn out “harsh” tasting. Or, that the pot should be stirred in only one direction – Superstitious, indeed.

This version, however, does away with any mysticism and uses chicken and coconut milk or cream to keep it most. It has the same basics, vinegar and salt (which act as preservatives), garlic, peppercorns and bay leaves, common to many preparations. But, it is because of the first two fundamental ingredients that it has a long shelf life… if it ever gets to hang around long enough before being devoured. Rumor has it that it’s best eaten one or two days after being cooked to allow the flavors to meld… as if anyone can wait.

Ingredients:

  • 1  3- or 4-lb. Fryer Chicken cut up (or, the equivalent in dark or white meat)
    [Or, substitute with some other protein, such as beef or pork.] 
  • 1 Can or 12-14 oz. Coconut Cream *
    (Make sure it is Coconut Cream, NOT Cream of Coconut)
  • 1/2 Cup Sukang Iloko (or other cane vinegar) **
  • 1/4 Cup Soy Sauce
  • 3 Bay Leaves
  • 5 Peeled Cloves Garlic (or more) Minced
  • 1 Tbsp. (Tablespoon) Whole Peppercorns
  • 1 Medium Onion Sliced into Rings
Cooking Method
  1. Put all the ingredients in a resealable plastic bag.
  2. Let the chicken marinade overnight or for at least 2 hours before cooking.
  3. Put all the contents of the plastic bag into a large pot or Dutch oven.
  4. Bring to a boil on high heat until it begins to boil.
  5. Turn down the heat to a simmer (medium or lower). 
  6. Cover and let the chicken cook for 20 - 30 minutes until tender.

Or, put all contents into a slow cooker and cook on high for 2 hours or low for 4 or more hours.

Alternate Cooking Method

  1. Place large pot or Dutch oven on stove over medium high heat and add 2 tbsp.. of oil.
  2. Once oil is hot and shimmers, sauté garlic until slightly brown. (1 – 2 min.)
  3. Sauté onion until wilted, I.e., sweat the onions. Add a few pinches of salt to make sweating the onions faster.
  4. Add chicken pieces and brown.
  5. Add vinegar, cover, turn down heat (medium high, medium) and cook for 10 minutes. (According to some, do not stir while cooking in the vinegar.)
  6. Add soy sauce, peppercorns and bay leaves and cook for another 5 minutes.
  7. Add coconut cream and stir. Cook covered for another 10 -15 minutes.
  8. If you want a thicker sauce, uncover and cook for an additional 5 - 10 minutes until sauce becomes the desired consistency.

TIP: To make it easier on your guests, make a small bag from cheese cloth. Put the bay leaves and the peppercorns in the bag and tie it with kitchen twine before adding it to the plastic bag or cooking vessel.

NOTES:
* – I sent a friend of mine to get coconut cream from the local grocery store while I was preparing other dishes for a dinner. He came back with cream of coconut. They are not the same. Cream of coconut is used in drinks such as mai tais. It is a heavily sweetened form of coconut milk and is NOT what you want. When shopping or sending somebody out, make sure it reads “coconut cream”.

** – If you cannot find Sukang Iloko, or you would like to substitute it with what you have on-hand, use a little less that what is listed above, especially, if you’re using apple cider vinegar.

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Ways to Make Your Food Suck – Awful Writing

Misspelt
Blogger telling me that the word is misspelled
Nothing else turns me off than reading through a blog post or a recipe and finding bad grammar, misspellings and just plain bad style. If I read enough bull shit, I stop and I won’t even recommend it to anyone, unless it’s for a chuckle here or there. It’s that simple. If I feel this way, I’m sure that there will be others who would agree with me. What’s worse is if it’s a new reader coming across the article. Why would someone put themselves through that?

Misspellings

In this day and age, there is no excuse to misspell words. Blogger, for instance, flags words that are incorrect. Nevertheless, I see it all too often. If you’re using an app such as Windows Live Writer or some other blog editor, this, too, is not an excuse for misspelling words. The occasional word is forgivable, but if the entry is rife with it, I don’t even go back.

Bad Grammar

LiveWriter
Windows Live Writer in action
Bad grammar is cringe-worthy. I read through and one of my eyebrows rises.
“I used medium size molder for this recipe and I was able to made around 30 pieces of delicious Kutsinta. [sic]”  (from Mely's Kitchen)
Which should have read:
“I used a medium size molder for this recipe and I was able to make around 30 pieces [of kustinta].”
I’m one for reducing redundancy and it’s why I left out “kutsinta” in the correction. Most of the recipes on the Mely’s Kitchen are written very well. Longer texts, on the other hand, such as her commentaries, contain grammatical errors. After reading post after post, it’s become apparent: Mely’s not a native English speaker. So, I give her some slack. By the way…  what the fuck is a "molder"?
 
In such cases, bad grammar is excusable since English is not her first language. Her recipes are enticing enough, nevertheless. But I skip the commentaries or introductions for the cringe-worthy grammar. They add nothing. There are a few other things that I would skip, but I will comment on them in another post. But she is trying and she has gained quite a number of followers. Yet, I wonder why no one has mentioned this to her to help improve the blog. Or, is she just making excuses and looking past them? I haven’t seen any corrections and I’ve visited the same recipes at least twice. Mely, if you’re reading, you need to clean up the blog.
 
Regardless of your fluency, native or not, grammar checking is available in many modern word-processing applications. Microsoft Word has it built in. If you are using a free word processor an extension can be installed in OpenOffice.org’s Writer. Grammar checking doesn’t seem to have made it into the web editor for Blogger, but if it has, I haven’t noticed yet. In addition, I use Windows Live Writer to write most of my posts. It is a great help since it uses Word’s grammar engine.
 
Even if your editing software lacks a grammar-checking capability, it should at least have a spellchecker. A few misspelt words is not very noticeable. Finding more than a few raises an eyebrow or two. But, finding too many can lead to confusion.
 
Tip: step away from your work for a few hours or a couple of days and revise it. Or, have someone else, like a good friend, to revise it. Hopefully, they are a “Grammar Nazi”. If you are not a native speaker of the target language - look for a friend who is. The more eyes, the more mistakes that can be caught. Grammar mistakes can be embarrassing, but like many things if caught early enough the embarrassment won't go global.
 
Now, a little more ranting… Although this is technically not a grammatical error, I find that the majority of recipe writers from the Philippines like to use the plural “shrimps”. In my English dialect, “shrimp” is both singular, plural and mass noun. And, to read “30 shrimps, clean[ed] and deveined” makes me want to reach out and hurt someone! Argh!

Misuse of Punctuation

Or, in some cases lack thereof.
 
Punctuation can be tricky and there are some rules that are hard to grasp if you don't write for a living. An example is when to use a colon or when to use a semicolon. That aside, it’s good to brush up on the proper use of at least the comma and the period. A very good example of bad punctuation can be seen in a faked magazine cover.
 
Commas make the difference!
The cover is allegedly from Tails, a magazine for pet owners. It shows Rachel Ray holding one of her dogs. The hoaxer deliberately removed the commas, and the text next to her read:
“Rachel Ray finds inspiration in cooking her family and her dog.”
The image has since gone viral. But, it has been debunked by Mashable.com. The actual text was:
“Rachel Ray finds inspiration in cooking, her family, and her dog.”
Punctuation. It’s that important.
 

Bad Style

Style is all about how you write the post and how it’s laid out. Everyone has their own style. Yet, some bloggers do not understand the concept and ramble on. You leave the reader thinking, "get to the fucking point!" It’s like reading a post in Reddit! (Posts there can get pretty bad.) Writers use the same word over and over again. Or, the writer tells us that the food “is tasty”, “is delicious”, or that we should “give it a try”, etc.
 
Bobby Flay once told a contestant on “Food Network Star” that “tasty” or “delicious” lacked any true “meaning”; he was right. If you didn’t think the food was delicious to begin with, why would you take the time to write about it? (Here's another topic to write about.) He encouraged the contestants to use more descriptive words and tell view how the food is "tasty" or why the food is “delicious" - Give the viewer something to relate to. Cooking is an art form. And, as an artist, you have to be familiar with the vocabulary and know to apply it.
Writers who I think are the worst offenders of this pet peeve of mine are those that do not organize their posts in a way that the reader can easily follow. Prime examples are introductions to a recipe. When I read the following, I didn’t bother reading any further the first time around:
”And of course the Coconut trunk can be used for cheap lumber, most commonly used in the Philippines to make concrete forms and also used to build huts as an alternative for more types of traditional lumber. Okay enough said, now let see my recipe!

Is it hot in here? No, not yet! But it will be as we dig deeper into this particular dish. First things first, before we get any deeper into this recipe I just want to make certain things clear. I’m not a Bicolano nor have I ever even been in Bicol. I was born in Antipolo Rizal and basically grew up in Quezon City before moving here to the U.S. in September of 1992. I’m going to apologize in advance if any of my facts aren’t totally accurate... ” [sic]

And, blah... And, blah... And, blah... Not even a squirrel! 
(from Kusinero.net)

Bicol Express whose recipe I have yet to read.

“Let see my recipe! [sic]" is right! Don’t say that unless you truly mean it! There were FIVE More paragraphs of text before you actually “get to the recipe.” (I should be grateful that the writer at least used paragraphs.) What does the coconut tree trunk have to do with the recipe? A1! (“Ewan”, I don’t know!) How the fuck am I supposed to know? Unless there is a story to be told that connects to the recipe, don’t put it in. This seem to resemble  a memory of his, but I just never made the connection. Did he need to hit a text quota? If I didn’t get the point, who else did not?
 
I still haven’t read the recipe. And, I don’t want to. It might have stuff from the coconut tree that is inedible!
 

What It Costs

Many a high school student will complain about taking English class. “Why do we have to study a language that we already speak?!” It’s because of misspelling, bad grammar and bad style that it exists. It there to help you express yourself and your ideas in a way that somebody else will understand. So, thank your English teacher for showing you how to write an understandable blog post and to use "correctments" as a friend of mine likes to joke.

The results of one or more of these blunders is plain old bad writing. If they make the post unappealing, then the food is unappealing too. It makes you less authoritative and less professional. It’s a true shame that people are more interested in presentation that the actual content of the post. Not only have you lost a reader by committing these simple, yet correctable mistake, but you lose credibility. In an Internet where possibly thousands of other people are writing about the same exact thing, the reader will go to someone else does the job just a bit betterly then ewe.

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Tracking

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Ox Tails in Peanut Butter Stew – Kare-Kare

Food Memory Mystery

Among the dishes that I like to make Kare-Kare or ox tails in a peanut butter stew is one of those food memory mysteries of mine. I can’t remember when I first had it. I don’t remember if either of my parents made it for us kids growing up. And, I don’t remember having it at the many extended family functions with my many aunts, uncles, cousins and second cousins. What I do remember is trying my hand at it for a small dinner with my friends Kate and Howard.
 
Kate, Howard and I came to an agreement that we’d cook for each other and any other friends who attended every Wednesday evening. Most of the time, it was at my apartment in the University district here in Seattle because it was the most convenient spot. I was in between jobs at the time. When it came to getting the place ready or when it was my turn to cook, I had ample time. One night it was my turn to cook, so I decided to cook Kare-Kare.
 
My first trial wasn’t that great. I learned a great deal, but the one lesson that I took away from that experience was that Kare-Kare takes time. The timing in the recipe was off. When I served I served it to Kate and Howard, the ox tails were tough and rubbery. The 90 minutes for the tails didn’t seem enough. The long beans with far from al dente and the eggplant was a bit raw. The flavors didn’t have time to meld. I’m glad that I didn’t use any tripe which some recipes called for; it would have been unpleasant because it would not have been cooked properly, either.
 
I made Kare-Kare again after being inspired by a book titled Memories of Philippine Kitchens by Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan. Their recipe appears on page 55. I’ve followed it almost to the letter on several occasions, but I’ve since slightly deviated from it. In the interests of saving time, I use a pressure cooker to tenderize the ox tail.
Kare-Kare
Kare-Kare ready to serve

Ingredients

    Ox Tail
  • 3 Lbs. Ox Tail – It’s possible to substitute another cut of beef. A good substitute is short ribs. If you are using a tougher cut, then cook it in a pressure cooker. If not, you can skip the step.
  • (Optional) 1/2 Lb. Beef tripe - cleaned well in cool water and vinegar until the grassy smell is gone and cut into 1/2 inch strips. If you’re squeamish about offal, you can skip this ingredient.
  • 8 Cloves of garlic – 4 Smashed and minced. 4 whole. Or, more garlic if you like. 
  • 2 Medium onions - 1 quartered, 1 diced
  • 6 Roma tomatoes or equivalent quartered
  • 1/4 Cup creamy peanut butter. Chunky is OK, too.
  • 2 Tbsp. achuete oil. Gives the sauce a tinge of red. Recipe: Achuete Oil
    Yard-long beans
  • 1 Bundle yard-long beans. AKA “Chinese long beans” or “sitaw”. Cut into 2 inch segments.
  • 3 – 4 Eggplants or aubergines, split down the middle and cut into 1/2 inch pieces
  • 1/4 Lb. Bok Choy
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • (Optional) Bugguong Alamang or Baguong Armang, fermented shrimp paste. Used as a condiment.

Procedure

  1. Wash and pat the ox tail dry with paper towels.
  2. Score the ox tail parallel to the bone.
  3. Season each with salt and pepper.
  4. Put the ox tail and the tripe in a pressure cooker. Add quartered onion and full cloves of garlic. Fill with water just to cover.
  5. Start timer once the pressure cooker starts to hiss and turn down the heat to maintain a gentle hiss. Cook for 1 hour.

    Alternate:
    If you're not using a pressure cooker or you are using a different cut of beef, use a Dutch Oven or a large pot. A vessel with about two-quarts capacity or more, such as one used in cooking pasta should do. Bring to a boil, and boil for 15 – 20 minutes. Turn down the heat, cover and simmer for an hour and a half or two hours. Or, just until the meat starts to pull away from the bone.
  6. If using a pressure cooker, turn off the heat and let cool just enough until it is safe to open. Follow the instruction manual for your cooker. But, don't open it just yet. Place the cooker in an ice bath in the sink. Fill the sink with ice and water just enough to reach the level of liquid in the cooker. You can tell where the liquid is just by looking at the sides of the cooker. Let the liquid cool until the fat floats to the top and solidifies, about 1 hour.

    CAUTION: When filling the sink with the cooker in the ice bath, DO NOT have the cold water hit the lid. I did this today and thermodynamics went into effect. I heard the cooker depressurize as I was tending to something else. When I investigated some of the cooking liquid came out; the seal had somehow broken, releasing hot liquid. It wasn't that bad, but could have been worse and I would have updated my status on my mobile while at a local hospital. So, let it cool a bit, then put it in the ice bath.
  7. If you're using a Dutch Over or a similar cooking vessel, follow the ice bath step above letting the fat come to the surface and solidify.
  8. Skim the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid. Try to remove as much of the fat in whole pieces as possible without the cooking liquid. Reserve the fat. You will be using this fat to sauté the garlic and onions. Water will just add to the splattering. The amount of fat should be enough that you will not need to add canola oil to make up the difference.
  9. (Optional) The meat should be cold enough, but it will not easily be removed from the bone. Some bones will have fallen off at this point. Discard the bones that have already separated from the meat.
  10. In another pot of equal or greater capacity, heat the fat on medium high and sauté the garlic and onion. Alternatively, transfer the ribs and tripe to a plate, and the stock to a large bowl. Sauté the garlic and onion with the fat in the same pot. If you have less that 5 tablespoons of fat, add the canola oil. But, it's doubtful that the canola will be needed. Turn down the heat to medium and sweat the diced onion.

    Tip: Add a pinch of salt to the onions so that they "sweat" better.
  11. Once the onion becomes translucent, turn down the heat and add the peanut butter, tomatoes and achuete oil. Stir to combine. The mixture should turn a ruddy orange because of the achuete oil. Cook until the tomatoes soften.
  12. Add the stock to the pot. Increase the heat to medium high. Stir to combine. Once it starts to boil, turn the heat down to medium and let cook for about 15 minutes.
  13. Add the oxtails and tripe to the pot. Increase the heat to medium high. As the meat warms, more of the meat will fall off the bone. Fish the orphaned bones and discard. This should be easier if you scored the connective tissue. Cook for about 15 - 20 minutes. The liquid should reduce.
  14. Blanch or steam the long beans, the egg plant and bok choy in a different vessel. If steaming, sprinkle some salt on the vegetables to taste once they become cooked to your liking.
  15. Add the vegetable to the main pot and continue cooking uncovered for another 5 - 10 minutes, or until the stock turns into a gravy or a nappe consistency, where it coats the back of a spoon.
  16. Salt to taste.
  17. If you want a thicker gravy, let the stew cool and then serve over rice with a side of fermented shrimp paste.

Achuete Oil

A great oil used for flavor and color, especially used for naturally coloring Longganisa (Spanish: Longaniza), a commonly known Philippine style of Chorizo. This recipe comes from Memories of Philippine Kitchens by Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan (a good book on Filipino cooking). I add a little more kick with three small, but potent, Thai chilies.

Ingredients

  • 2 Cups - Vegetable Oil. Or, another neutral oil. I would caution against using olive oil because the touch of acidity that it brings is rather marked when using the infused oil in cooking.
  • 1/2 Cup - Annatto Seeds. I have managed to find these red gems only at Asian markets. You could substitute Annatto/Achuete powder. If you do, let me know how it turned out and how much you used. I would shy away from the “Goya” product since the packet contains other ingredients.
  • 6 Whole Cloves - Garlic... Or, more. I used up to 10 cloves.
  • 2 Bay Leaves (aka, Laurel Leaves)
  • 2 Ancho Chilies - Remove the stems and tear up. These are dried. Check the Hispanic or Ethnic isle at the local grocer.
  • 3 Thai Chilies - Split down the middle

Procedure:

  1. In a small sauce pan, put all the dry ingredients in the oil.
  2. On medium heat, heat the oil until it begins to boil or bubble.
  3. Kill the heat and steep for an hour or two.
  4. Strain out the solids and discard. You should end up with roughly 1 3/4 cups.
  5. Keep the oil in an air tight container in the refrigerator.

This oil is great for use in home-made longganisa, Inasal na Manok (grilled chicken marinated in achuete oil and lemongrass) and Kare-Kare. When used for grilling, it give a nice, but subtle, smoky flavor and a great ruddy appearance.

Monday, September 8, 2014

Nagasang a Laing (Spicy Laing)

Laing is a dish from the Bikol (Bicol) region of the Philippines. It consists of Taro leaves, coconut cream or milk, chilies and a protein, either pork or dried fish.

The first time I had spicy laing was at a party at my uncle Prisco’s house. There are seven children in his family, so it must had been someone’s birthday. When  my cousin showed me the dish, the first thing that I noticed was the sweet smell of the coconut and shrimp-past mixture. What looked like spinach was in fact taro leaves, something that up until that point I had never tried. I didn’t what to make of it, really. But, after having my first few bites, I was surprised to feel harmony of the spiciness of the chilies, the sweet creaminess of the coconut milk or cream, the saltiness of the shrimp paste and the smooth texture of the taro leaves. I’ve loved it ever since.

Since that day I’ve searched for recipes online. I was told at first that the dish I ate was called “Bikol Express”, named after a train that ran in Manila. After more research, I’ve come to find out that it is more of a laing recipe, instead, because of the addition of the taro leaves (gabi).

I also asked someone from the Bikol region about this dish. She mentioned that they wash the shrimp paste. That’s one technique I did not follow because all you would be left with would be the miniature shells of the shrimp. One recipe called for five different types of chilies, all in quarter-cup amounts, six cans of coconut cream and an entire 12-ounce jar of fermented shrimp paste! I continue to follow this recipe with some of my own tweaks and some tips from my uncle and my cousins. For one, I don’t use as many chilies nor in such amounts. Also, I don’t use as much shrimp paste.

This dish is truly a dish of extremes: it was very salty, very spicy and very sweet. The epitome of Filipino cooking! If you have an “adventurous” palate, this is the dish for you!

SpicyLaing-01

Recipe

Serves six to eight

Ingredients

  • 2-3 lbs. pork butt or belly cut into 1/2” strips
  • 1 large yellow onion diced
  • 3 - 4 cloves garlic, smashed and minced
  • 1/4 cup ginger peeled, crushed and minced
  • 1/4 cup fresh turmeric, peeled, crushed and diced
  • 1 stalk of lemongrass, crushed and tied
  • 1/2 cup or more fermented shrimp paste
  • 1 can coconut cream (Do not get "cream of coconut"; it's a different product used in alcoholic drinks)
  • 2 bundles of fresh taro leaves chiffonade
  • 1-2 Tbsp. oil
  • 5 Thai birds-eye chilies (or more)
  • 2 Jalapeño chilies (optional)
  • 2 Serrano chilies (optional)

Preparation

Pork

I prefer to use either pork butt or the country-style ribs. Pork belly is great, too, but I like a higher ratio of lean to fat, but not absolutely lean. Skin is OK, but I’m not a fan unless it’s chicharrones or crackling.

To cut down on the greasiness of the final product, cut the pork into long strips about one-inch wide, but short enough to place inside a steamer. Salt and pepper the pork and steam for 10 – 15 minutes. Once steamed, let the pork cool enough to handle and slice into strips. What you are doing is pre-cooking the pork and rendering the excess fat.

Ginger and Turmeric

Peel the ginger by scraping using a tablespoon. Smash the ginger and mince.

The most common form turmeric appears in many grocery stores is in a dried powder form. This recipe calls for fresh. This root, resembles ginger in appearance, but has a ruddy, orange color. Turmeric stains! Use latex gloves if possible because the stains will remain on your fingers for several days.

Lemongrass

Take off the outer “leaves” of the lemongrass. Pound the lemongrass to release its essence and then tie in a loose knot because it will make it easier to retrieved later.

Fermented Shrimp Paste

The fermented shrimp paste I use is usually called “bugguong armang” or “baguong alamang”. The paste comes in 12-ounce jars and has a pink color (usually food coloring). It is available at many grocery stores that specialize or stock Asian food products.

Taro Leaves

Tarot leaves can be found in grocery stores that specialize or stock Asian food products. Cut off and discard the stalks. Roll the leaves into tight cones by using where the stalk connected to the leave as the apex. Once rolled into a cone cut into strips. What you are doing is chiffonade-ing the leaves. I’ll have to record a video how this is done, somehow. Afterward, rinse the cut leave under cold water, drain and set aside.

Many recipes call for dried taro leaves. Unfortunately, I don’t have experience with them. I can usually get them fresh in the stores in Chinatown, here in Seattle. There are other recipes that suggest that you wipe down the leaves because the fine hairs cause irritation in the mouth and throat. In my experience this hasn’t happened.

[EDIT: 01/10/2018 ]

Since writing this post several years ago, I have tried using the dried leaves. They are more convenient and require no prep work. Just open the packet -- I usually use two 4oz. packets -- and add it to the dish. But, make sure that there is enough liquid.

Chilies

When handling the chilies, use latex gloves. I’ve been sticking with just using the Thai chilies. Just six or seven is enough for me. I cut them into very thin slices, discarding the green stem. I don’t seed them either and leave the flesh where the source of the heat lays.

SpicyLaingPrep

Procedure

  1. Heat oil in a 2 quart pot or Dutch oven.
  2. Sauté onions over medium high heat and sweat with a few pinches of salt until translucent.
  3. Add garlic sauté until fragrant..
  4. Add crushed ginger and turmeric. Stir in until fragrant.
  5. Add shrimp paste and the lemons grass. Stir to make sure everything is mixed well.
  6. Add chilies and stir in the pork.
  7. Make sure to shake the can of coconut cream, and then add it to the pot.
  8. Add taro leaves a batch at a time. Once one batch wilts add another. If you are using dried, make sure each batch rehydrates.
  9. Bring to a boil and stir occasionally. Taste and adjust for spiciness and seasoning. Use more sliced chilies if desired to increase its spiciness.
  10. Turn down the heat to medium and continue to cook for another 10 minutes. The taro leaves should be wilted enough to resemble creamed spinach.
  11. Turn down the heat further and reduce if there is still more liquid. It should not appear soupy.
  12. Fish out the lemongrass and discard.
  13. Serve with rice and with extra chilies (optional).
  14. Enjoy.

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